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Fashion verdict: NYFW Fall 2015 Day 6
From left to right: Oscar de la Renta, KTZ, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Narciso Rodriguez, Rodarte
Noreen Flanagan, editor-in-chief:
1. Marc by Marc Jacobs: Luellea Bartley and Katie Hillier are riding the #feminism wave with their Victorian-punkish collection. (If you haven’t read it yet, check out Antonia Zerbisias’ Feminism’s online renaissance.)
2. Oscar de la Renta: I can only imagine the immense pressure that Peter Copping felt moments before his debut as Oscar De la Renta’s successor. Impossible shoes to fill, yet his first outing for the famed label was refined and modern. His sense of colour play in this look is exquisite.
3. Rodarte: The love child of Miss Kitty and Bob Mackie. I admire the inventiveness and creativity – even though the aesthetic is well beyond my fashion sweet spot.
4. Narciso Rodriguez: To describe this collection as long, lean and minimal would be an understatement. There was nothing especially inventive about this interpretation of the slip dress.
5. KTZ: This is a complicated collection to critique because it raises the valid question of when designers cross the line between inspiration and cultural appropriation. What is intriguing – and notable – is the unexpected pop art treatment of Native American motifs. It’s a fresh, non-reductive interpretation, but does that make it right? Where is the line between inspiration and cultural appropriation?
Sarah Thompson, content producer:
1. Oscar de la Renta: The classic fur coat! The fuchsia tunic dress! Peter Copping totally rocked his first (ladylike) collection for Oscar de la Renta.
2. Rodarte: How many different types of fabric are in this dress? A plus to the team at Rodarte for creating something so beautiful and different.
3. KTZ: I think the pattern and accessory selections are en pointe, but the colour pairings in this look are a little OTT for fall.
4. Marc by Marc Jacobs: Is it just me, or does this graphic ensemble get lost in the busy background?
5. Narciso Rodriguez: A plain white ’90s-inspired slip dress – I’m over it.
Liz Guber, workflow editor:
1. Narciso Rodriguez: This dress is an ode to the dip in a woman’s shoulder. if office dress codes didn’t exist, it’s a look I would live in.
2. Oscar de la Renta: A first show from a new creative director that is sure to please die-hard fans of the house.
3. KTZ: Now this is how you stand up to winter with moxie.
4. Marc by Marc Jacobs: It seems we’re picking up where Chanel left off. Solidarity aside, I love the pattern mix and riotous accessories.
5. Rodarte: More fringe! So happy to see this trend carry forward from last season in a new feathery iteration.