New York Fashion Week Day 3: Runway highlights

Feb 12 2012 by
Categories : Fashion
Lacoste’s inspiration came from the French national men’s ski team circa 1966.

Finally, my first full day of shows … and it did not disappoint. I woke up to snowflakes outside—and inside—at Lacoste, my first show of the morning. The center of the runway showcased giant rectangular snow-globe boxes filled with flurries. The soundtrack? Sleigh bell music. The look from Lacoste artistic director Felipe Oliveira Baptista was “rugby dress meets ski suit” inspired by pics of the French national men’s ski team circa 1966 (outfitted by Lacoste, of course) and a mountain motoring expedition from the 1930s. The oversized “egg-shaped” parkas with morphing hoods and multiple zippers were standouts. And the
ski sweaters with alligator patterns were a nice touch. Later in the day I met up with ELLE Canada’s Anthony Mitropoulos for the Herve Leger show where equestrian corset-harnesses added a layer of complexity to Leger’s famous bandeau dresses. Plenty of pleats, fringe details, and models sporting true
PONY tails, swished and swayed down the runway.

Herve Leger’s gladiator women.

Anthony’s take: “Leger had Gladiator women emerging from the Colosseum ready to fight for fashion in
knee-high, stappy stiletto boots!”
It was worth the hour delay to see Miguel Androver’s return to the runway and his new take on deconstructed-reconstructed-collage creations. “I have been thinking about a plane flying over the Amazon, carrying luggage that drops down. And I think about the Yanomami of the Amazon finding the luggage but not knowing how to use it,” Androver writes in the show notes. “I also envisioned someone from another world visiting Earth for the first time, trying to make sense out of the fashion they encounter, and then putting it all together without any knowledge of what time period, what social class it was from or represented.” The show opened with a dress made from four of Androver’s own shirts, followed by tops made out of burkas, skirts made from sport jackets, a dress made from a ribbed tank and an
Alexander McQueen leather coat, and an outfit made from Androver’s great-grandmother’s clothes and a sweater crawling with cats. And, of course, you couldn’t miss the gloved shoes, which gave the middle finger. The final statement piece? An upside-down Gap windbreaker that was transformed into a hat-dress. The silhouettes were beautiful and unusual—certainly fit for any exotic visitor from this world or beyond.

One of Androver’s deconstructed-reconstructed-collage creations.

Anthony’s take: “Androver is an absolute genius! I have missed him from back in the days when he sent a live sheep onto the stage. You never know what to expect. This time, the models littered the runway with money. Perhaps this was a comment on the business of art vs. fashion? Androver certainly leans more toward art than the commerce of fashion, which has always been both the brilliance and the challenge of his work.”

Coin fringe details at Altuzarra.

My last show of the evening was Altuzarra. And as the 2011 winner of the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund prize, Joseph Altuzarra’s collection did not disappoint. The collection was a blend of nautical-military-Gypsy-
Moroccan-Indian influences with
statement peacoats (sure to become a must-have), wool turtlenecks with thin braided details, and jingling skirts with miles of coin fringe—which made a lovely sound as the models swished by. (Plus, I love that my day started and ended with jingle sounds!)
Anthony’s take:“I loved Altuzarra’s sheepskins, bright pompons and the movement of the flirty, flared skirts which contrasted with the sharp tailoring on top. It is already shaping up to become another season of statement coats.” Missed the action from Day 2? Check out the details
here, and don’t miss out on our
street style snaps from Day 3!
If you could go to New York Fashion Week, which designer would you love to see?  

Categories: Fashion