Louis Vuitton and Seoul have always had a special relationship. Since the famous French trunk maker’s first store opened there in 1991, the city and its cultural vibrancy have been ongoing sources of inspiration. Seoul hosted the maison’s Volez, Voguez, Voyagez exhibition in 2017, and it’s also the site of Frank Gehry’s remarkable Louis Vuitton Maison Seoul store. The brand and the bustling international metropolis continue to work together to this day, most notably on the maison’s dramatic pre-fall 2023 show, which was presented by womenswear artistic director Nicolas Ghesquière in collaboration with Hwang Dong-hyuk (director of the hit Netflix series Squid Game), who lent a cinematic tone to the event as the show’s scenography creative adviser.

The runway was staged on the lower level of the impressive two-storey Jamsugyo Bridge; the structure’s raw contours created shadows as the sun set and we made our way to our seats. Exposed to an icy wind, we sat wrapped in shawls and clenching hand heaters that were distributed to everyone, the Hangang River roaring below us.

Wearing an electric-blue bomber, a studded-leather trapeze skirt and an XXL belt, South Korean actor and model HoYeon Jung—who’s also the face of Louis Vuitton—opened the show with an assertive gait. Following suit, a steady stream of models revealed a subtle balance between brand fundamentals, futuristic accents, bohemian inspirations and sportswear influences for an ultra contemporary collection. The checkerboard pattern was reinvented and the monogram sized down. Our eyes zeroed in on zippers, oversized blazers, long dresses that undulated in the wind, leather pieces, vinyl and, for the luckier models, down jackets. Chunky shoes and statement accessories completed the looks—whether fluid or structured—with assured confidence. Then a long row of water jets sprayed down from the bridge’s upper storey under a bluish light—a sign for the 46 models to start their closing march along the lengthy catwalk. It was a theatrical finale for a striking show in the heart of Seoul.

HANDLE IT

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As versatile as it is elegant, the Atlantis bag has soft lines, a shoulder strap, a signature print and a nameplate. For us, this is the Louis Vuitton bag of the pre-fall season.

SIZE UP

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A piece that gives character and grit to any silhouette, the Oversized Hook belt, with its XXL carabiner, has an adjustment system at the back for a perfectly accentuated waist.

FREE FLOWING

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This long belt of our dreams has delicate perforated metal flowers, is assembled by hand and literally floats on top of clothing. A beautiful example of skill and craftsmanship, this piece is made-to-order.

GO BOLD

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We say yes to this rocker-chic layered look, with its oversized blazer, deep-V bodysuit, quilted leather miniskirt and glittery glasses.