‘Old Céline’ loyalists, rejoice! For finally, after an excruciatingly dragged-out six-year hiatus, British designer Phoebe Philo has officially launched her eponymous brand.

On October 30, fashion devotees’ phones flashed a promising notification: ‘phoebephilo.com is open’.

For those of us who registered for the Parisian-born designer’s eponymous launch back in July of this year, it was a long-awaited launch and thankfully, if you click through to her site, a successful one.

With more than 100 pieces released, the edit includes leather outerwear, oversized suiting, delicate silk draping and satisfyingly chunky knitwear. The accessories, namely high collar heels, cavernous suede holdalls and seventies sunnies, are particularly lust worthy, with plenty of ELLE editors literally and metaphorically adding to basket.

The undoubted hit of the collection, however, is the ‘MUM’ emblazoned jewellery — with the sterling silver iteration of the necklace sold out in under 30 minutes.

From a brand expected to be so ‘quiet luxury‘ we’d have to whisper its name, we’re thankful Philo’s offering still feels playful: elevating the much-dreaded accusation of ‘dressing like a mum’ with loud and proud jewellery. Philo herself is a mum of three.

Far from being a traditional high fashion house, Phoebe Philo is reportedly not set to be following the traditional fashion calendar. Instead its three yearly edits will drop intermittently, the first being the current A1 (running from now until December), then A2, A3 and so on.

But, if you think this means a steady feed on endless Philo designs, you’re sadly mistaken. If you take a look at the brand’s ‘Impact’ page you’ll read: ‘We are committed to minimizing waste and avoiding overproduction
by producing notably less than anticipated demand.’

And if you need it spelled out for you: once it’s sold out, it’s sold out. Time to head to the resale sites.

 

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The fanfare began when on July 27, the brand posted a sole infographic on its Instagram saying (alongside the brand name): ‘phoebephilo.com is now open for registration’.

And on Saturday (September 28), subscribers learnt the launch date was set: October 30.

They were also privy to some select imagery, which focussed on red lettering, and close-up grainy imagery showing models, accessories and some glimpses of clothing.

Following years of whispers, rumours and prayers of the designer’s return—as well as almost two years of complete silence from the famously private Philo—the 50-year-old designer revealed in February 2023 that she will unveil her first new collection in September 2023.

The news was announced with a post on Philo’s new Instagram account. In her signature minimalist style, the brand is simply named ‘Phoebe Philo’ and features a pared-back monochromatic colour scheme.

Now taken down, the post read: ‘Our inaugural collection will be revealed and available on our website, phoebephilo.com, in September 2023. We will be opening for registration in July 2023 and look forward to being back in touch then.’

Naturally, the fashion world went into overdrive following the news, with the Instagram page racking up more than 20,000 followers in the first hour alone. Fashion editors and insiders also expressed their delight in the comments section, with the likes of ELLE UK Contributing Editor Camille Charrière writing ‘🤝🏼❤️ worth the wait’ and Instagram’s Head of Fashion Eva Chen noting, ‘🙌🙌🙌 we are ready’.

Phoebe Philo was creative director of Chloé during its Nineties-Noughties heyday, and is best known for her decade-long tenure at Céline—a brand which she ‘resuscitated’ and ‘revolutionised’ with her chic, minimalist aesthetic that still enjoys a cult following today. Philo stepped down as the brand’s creative director in 2017 to the dismay of many, and went largely off the radar until 2021 when she announced she would launch a brand under her own name.