New York Fashion Week Day 4: Canadian designers hit the runway
I started off my day with a double dose of Canadian style. First up was
Jeremy Laing who presented his collection in a glossy white loft space in Chelsea.
The show opened with a zip-back jacket and skinny pants in bleach-print velvet, which reflected the starting point for the collection:
tailored jackets and textures. “I frequently will start my design process with
dresses but you can kind of get bored with the way you work, so it’s nice to try a different approach to see what happens,” Laing told me. This season, he made a conscious decision to opt for “something with a more tactile sensitivity” rather than the digital prints, for which he is well-known. “Bleach printing is a reactive process that removes dye and ink from the fibre, so it’s harder to control. But that’s the beauty of it, you get variety, which is cool.”
The technique gave the velvets a mysterious
wild-animal vibe, while the Black Lily bleach-printed wool has subtler, more refined ombre shading. “This time, I wanted the contrast to be less about colour and more about the texture,” Laing said. “So even if the look was all black, there was leather, velvet, satin, a brushed wool, a suede jersey, so it all adds up to a richness, but in a low contrast way.”
Interesting note: I actually caught up with Laing not at his own show, but waiting in line at the Juma show, just 90 minutes after his own show wrapped. “I’ve known them [sister and brother design team Alia and Jamil Juma] for a long time, so it’s nice to support each other, and see what they are up to,” Laing said. (How sweet!)
This season, the Juma duo took inspiration from travels to China and Thailand, then mixed in a bit of imagined space travel. “We fused Asian mod tailoring with techie space-inspired digital prints,” Alia told me as she pointed to her own psychedelic orange-and-green printed tunic and leggings. “The fabric patterns are all from our own photos or illustrations that have been altered and manipulated,” said Jamil. The prints looked especially fetching on oversized canvas-printed totes and clutches with black leather side panels and trim. Montreal-born Antonio Azzuolo, who has done stints at Ralph Lauren Purple and Black Label, Hermes and Kenzo and was a 2011 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Finalist showed his men’s fall/winter collection, and ELLE Canada’s Anthony Mitropoulos was there.
Here’s Anthony’s take: “Ladies, it’s time to think about the boys! Azzuolo stated that his direction for fall represents a new way of dressing a man by merging
streetwear influences with traditional tailoring. While his tailoring remains strict and chic, he’s loosened up the silhouette (to be more relaxed and slightly boxy) by introducing kimono shirt styles, dropping the shoulder in jackets and coats, adding volume to the sleeve and styling with asymmetrical wrap trousers or shorts.”
What do you think of Jeremy Laing’s use of texture and prints? Fill us in below!