New York City and Alexander McQueen have a symbiotic creative history that goes back to 1996, when the designer first brought his runway to the metropolis, taking over America as the reckless British brand. Alexander McQueen’s current creative director Sarah Burton revived this rich legacy between the city and the label by bringing their fall-winter 2022/2023 runway across the Atlantic—to a Brooklyn warehouse, that is.

As creativity often entails forgetting our surroundings, Burton literally re-rooted herself in the concept of earth, death and regrowth through a nature lens. Mushrooms adorned complex embroideries, piles of mulch served as decor (is there something more fresh than the smell of soil?), all to the sonic backdrop of “A Forest” by The Cure. Whimsical energy was definitely in the air as model Awar Odhiang opened the show in an expertly crafted, sleek black leather dress.

There are few to any womenswear brands that approach tailoring with such an impeccable attention to the feminine than Sarah Burton does at McQueen. Perfectly-cut two-piece suits and leather jackets graced the runway while offering not only empowering moments, but quite seductive ones. Romantic pleats, shoulder ruffles and tulle skirts adorned some dresses, laser-cut lace into leather detailing and perfectly placed oversized zippers garnished others. Kaia Gerber strutted out in one of the most complex embellished pieces seen from the house since McQueen himself, crystal roots literally dripping down her silhouette, or the ode to his famous spray painted dress Shalom Harlow danced in at the Number 13 collection finale, which was reinterpreted in a sartorial way by Burton for this collection..

While McQueen is associated with edge and shock value, Burton’s McQueen is one that first and foremost resonates with femininity, assumed womanhood, and wearability (it’s worth noting that 85 percent of the collection was made of upcycled materials, bringing eco responsibility to the high-end fashion). “I wanted a precision to the tailoring, a vibrancy and a sense of character and personality,” explained Burton.

While we all dearly miss the mystical ride McQueen brought us on at every single one of his runway presentations, Burton continues to honor his legacy and make us dream only the way impeccable fashion can.

See the rest of our favourite looks from the show:

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