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NYFW Fall 2014 Backstage Beauty: The urban sports knot at Rag & Bone
Think of your next take on the pony/bun hybrid this way: Pull your hair back loosely in a semi
ponytail/bun, let pieces stick out and sleep on it. That’s the effect that Paul Hanlon for Schwarzkopf Professional created for
Rag & Bone’s fall 2014 hair look that he dubbed the urban sports knot. “It’s more of a street style,” he explains. “It’s not meant to be glamourous. Like dreadlocks, but not that rough.” It’s slightly edgier than the label is used to, but with the masculine pieces going down the runway, it worked. “What I love about this label is that it really appeals to girls on the street, it’s not like a pretentious thing,” explains Hanlon. “They’ve gone a little step further each and every show in terms of hair and makeup.” “There’s a little bit of Fred Astaire, a little bit of the ‘50s in the hair, that sort of masculine thing in the front, but it’s also got to still feel like believable even if it is a bit edgy and
a bit punky.” Here’s how Hanlon got that dreadlock-street edge, minus the actual dreadlocks.
1. Hanlon had to make the hair look as lived-in as possible, starting with a grease look at the roots. “We had to try to age the hair a little bit,” he says. He used OSiS+ Rough Rubber ($20), running his fingers through the roots, creating separation and definition. “It gives it that ‘50s pomade-look, without too much shine (we use a matte one) so it looks like a natural grease in the hair.”
2. Designers Marcus Wainwright and David Neville really wanted that lived-in look. “Marcus kept referencing Saturday morning, like you woke up and pulled your hair back and it’s a little dreadlocky. Sort of what your hair would naturally do if you left it alone for a week,” explains Hanlon. The team used OSiS+ Dust It ($23.50) to take away shine, add grit and grip, and make the hair look almost matted. “We used loads of the powder to make it like candy floss – it takes all the shine out and makes it more bed heady and tangled.”
3. Once the hair is completely texturized (greasy at the root, dry at the ends), Hanlon loosely pulled the
hair into a ponytail that was partly a bun with strands and sections sticking out. “I still wanted a little bit of softness and bits pulling out near the face and behind.” OSiS+ Mess Up ($21.50) was added to the pulled out strands for more texture and a hint of shine for contrast. A pin was used to hide the elastic and complete the knot – just how you might pull your hair back when you’re at home on the weekend. “It still has to feel like a girl can look like that.”
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