Effortless, timeless and seasonless. Designer Clare Waight Keller’s new collection for Uniqlo, is all about ease and versatility—and includes all the building blocks you might want for a contemporary capsule wardrobe.

“I started to think about how people have changed in the way they work [post-Covid]…everybody is commuting into work maybe two or three days a week, maybe they’re working at home,” Waight Keller said at the global launch for Uniqlo : C in Paris earlier this month. From there, she was inspired to create “a more flexible wardrobe, something you can dress up, dress down.”

A fashion industry veteran, Waight Keller was formerly the artistic director at Givenchy and creative director at Chloé and Pringle of Scotland. She also designed Meghan Markle’s wedding dress.

Two years ago, the British designer was introduced to Yukihiro Katsuta, the head of research and development for Uniqlo, through a mutual friend. The two started talking on the phone—Japan was still in lockdown—about a capsule collection, which then evolved into a brand new label for the Japanese fashion retailer.

“I’ve always been a fan of Uniqlo, it’s a brand that I have bought myself over the last 10 years,” said Waight Keller, noting that she wears men’s cashmere from the brand and owns “lots of pieces” from Uniqlo’s +J collaboration with Jil Sander. “I really appreciate their details and quality and all the attention to innovation.”

With the debut of Uniqlo : C, Waight Keller has the opportunity to reach a new, global audience with her work. “I love the idea of working on this scale,” said Waight Keller. “For the first time, for me, it’s extraordinary to be able to dress so many people in my designs at this price.”

The Fall/Winter 2023 collection, which ranges in price from $29.90 for a cotton-silk scarf to $199.90 for the belted wrap coat, was inspired in part by the architecture and people of the Hackney Wick area of East London.

“There’s a vibrant spirit there that felt really good to start an idea of the concept for this collection,” said Waight Keller. “So particularly for me it was the architecture and the buildings that inspired the colour palette, and then just actually observing the people and how they’re commuting to work, using the Tube, bikes, every sort of form of transport—you see a kind of a style, a way of wearing clothes that is evolving with the way of life that they have.”

In theme with the focus on commuting and movement, the collection features Uniqlo’s first ever footwear range. “It started because I was asking about doing a total look, and…the shoes complete the look,” said Waight Keller. There are four styles, including a knee boot, two short boots and a loafer, designed to coordinate with the clothes in the collection—and all are flats. “I think all of us are running around everywhere now, and I just couldn’t think of anything other than flats that I wanted to wear,” said Waight Keller.

Other highlights from the 34-piece range include pretty pleated skirts, printed dresses that can go from work to weekend, and a statement-making corduroy suit. Waight Keller herself has been wearing the classic trench coat from the collection on repeat. “It’s just the perfect weight because you can wear a sweater under it or a t-shirt,” she said. “I can belt it really narrowly because it’s got a lot of length on the belt, so you can tie it quite small.”

And, like most of the collection, the trench is designed with versatility in mind. “I know I can wear it now, but I also can put one of the little down padded jackets under it and wear it in December,” said Waight Keller. “There’s this idea of these things travelling in your wardrobe all year round that I really wanted to achieve.”

Uniqlo : C is available online and in-stores, starting September 15.

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