A trench coat, a bucket bag, the perfect black stilettos—all are investment pieces of an eternally chic wardrobe. And while we would never fault anyone for splurging on a Max Mara 101801 Icon Coat, it’s not the only asset worth spending your hard-earned dollars on. With the advancements in skincare and treatment technologies over the past few decades, investing in your face is now more possible than ever. After all, it’s what you present to the world day in, day out—just think of the cost per wear! “Investing in your skin is a form of self-care,” says Joanna Auguste, aesthetic nurse practitioner and owner of The Face Lab in Toronto. “And for many, it’s about aligning their inner and outer beauty to feel like the best version of themselves.”

When devising a long-term investment plan for your face, adopting a targeted skincare routine should be your first order of business. “Skincare is one of the most important things someone can do for their skin,” says Dr. Russell Wong, medical director and dermatologist at the Edmonton South location of Rejuvenation. Ingredients like retinol and vitamin C along with daily sunscreen will go a long way toward preserving your skin’s health.

That being said, products—effective as they can be, especially for prevention—are not a cure-all. “There’s only so much skincare can do,” says Wong. “Your regimen will not significantly reverse signs of aging or acne scarring, no matter what a label claims.” Treating skin concerns that require more heavy lifting, such as laxity, deep wrinkles or dark spots, is thus best left to the professionals, says Auguste. Overall, a holistic approach that combines skincare and in-office treatments will yield the best long-term results. “[They] work hand in hand,” says Wong, explaining that skin, no matter a person’s age, will respond better to in-office treatments if it has been properly cared for.

Of course, visits to medi-spas can be pricey. That’s why it’s crucial to be upfront with your practitioner about how much you’re looking to spend. In many ways, these experts can act as financial advisers for your face, helping you stretch your dollars and get the best ROI. We tapped Auguste and Wong to do just that, asking them to lay out the best treatment plan for major concerns depending on one’s budget. Consider this your ultimate “skinvestment” guide.

THE CONCERN: FINE LINES AND WRINKLES

Topping the list of most-asked-about skin concerns is fine lines and wrinkles. Lines typically start cropping up when we’re in our mid- to late 20s and are a natural part of getting older due to collagen and elastin production decreasing with age. Crow’s feet around the eyes, a furrowed brow and expression lines along the forehead are a few of the most common wrinkles people first see form.

$500 AND UNDER

NEUROMODULATORS (often referred to by the brand name “Botox”)
APPROXIMATE COST Typically about $10 to $16 per unit, with the average number of units needed ranging from 30 to 70, depending on a patient’s age and the area being treated
NUMBER OF SESSIONS REQUIRED One, with up to four treatments per year
RESULTS LAST FOR Three to four months
DOWNTIME None (aside from needing to be careful not to touch your face for a few hours post-treatment)
SAFE FOR ALL SKIN TONES? Yes
HOW IT WORKS The injectable neurotoxin blocks certain chemical signals from nerves that cause the muscles to contract, which “relaxes” wrinkles and irons them out. This price point would typically allow you to treat one to two areas of the face, says Wong. With a higher budget, two to four areas could be injected. Neuromodulators approved by Health Canada include Botox, Dysport, Xeomin and the recently greenlit Nuceiva, and while each treatment’s ingredients vary slightly, they all produce similar results.

MICRONEEDLING
APPROXIMATE COST $300 to $500 per session
NUMBER OF SESSIONS REQUIRED One to three
RESULTS LAST FOR Six months to a year, once the bulk of treatments has been completed
DOWNTIME Redness and irritation for 24 hours up to a few days SAFE FOR ALL SKIN TONES? Yes
HOW IT WORKS Microneedling is a minimally invasive procedure that uses tiny needles to prick the top layer of the skin, which helps stimulate collagen production. The treatment is often teamed up with certain topical actives, such as hyaluronic acid or vitamin C, depending on the desired results, as the micro-channels created by the needles increase ingredient penetration.

CHEMICAL PEEL
APPROXIMATE COST $100 to $300
NUMBER OF SESSIONS REQUIRED One to six
RESULTS LAST FOR A few weeks to a month
DOWNTIME You may experience redness and flaking for a few days post-peel
SAFE FOR ALL SKIN TONES? Yes, but modifications might be necessary for deeper skin tones
HOW IT WORKS A peel uses a chemical solution to remove the dead cells sitting on the outer layer of the skin, making fine lines and wrinkles look softened. Each session will also help to even out the skin’s texture and tone. A peel won’t give you the same results as using a neuromodulator to smooth out wrinkles, but it will give the skin an overall “freshened up” look.

$1,200 AND UNDER

RADIOFREQUENCY (RF) MICRONEEDLING
APPROXIMATE COST $850 to $1,200 per treatment
NUMBER OF SESSIONS REQUIRED Three treatments are typically recommended
RESULTS LAST FOR Six months to a year
DOWNTIME Redness and dryness are typical for a few days up to a week after each session
SAFE FOR ALL SKIN TONES? Yes
HOW IT WORKS Differing from regular microneedling, this treatment adds in the benefits of radiofrequency energy, which helps deliver even more impressive results. An RF device uses low-frequency electromagnetic waves to generate heat, which penetrates deep into the skin to encourage collagen production. Additional treatment option: Neuromodulators injected into more areas of the face or more units injected per session

$4,000 AND UNDER

CO2 LASER RESURFACING
APPROXIMATE COST $1,500 to $3,500
NUMBER OF SESSIONS REQUIRED One to four
RESULTS LAST FOR Three to five years
DOWNTIME A few days to two weeks, depending on the strength of the treatment
SAFE FOR ALL SKIN TONES? Not recommended for deeper skin tones due to the risk of developing hyperpigmentation
HOW IT WORKS CO2 (carbon dioxide) laser resurfacing uses beams of light to precisely remove the top layer of skin while heating the deeper ones. When the skin is injured, the body is prompted to produce healthy new cells, resulting in a smoother, more youthful complexion. These lasers can be used to target specific or broader areas of the skin.

ULTRASOUND TECHNOLOGY
APPROXIMATE COST $2,500 to $4,000
NUMBER OF SESSIONS REQUIRED One session annually RESULTS LAST FOR One to two years
DOWNTIME None
SAFE FOR ALL SKIN TONES? Yes
HOW IT WORKS Ultrasound technology uses high-frequency sound waves and energy to stimulate collagen and elastin production, which will give the skin a plumper, tighter look. The depth of the treatment depends on the device used. Sofwave and Ultherapy are two popular options that differ slightly, with the former using waves and the latter using energy.

THE CONCERN: UNEVEN SKIN TONE

One of the main culprits here is UV damage. Over the years, exposure to the sun triggers melanin production, which can result in dark spots. This gives the skin a patchy, irregular appearance (hence the importance of daily SPF). Other causes of an uneven skin tone include hormones (during pregnancy, for example), general skin aging and acne scarring.

$250 AND UNDER

PICOWAY LASER
APPROXIMATE COST $250 to treat a single area
NUMBER OF SESSIONS REQUIRED One to four
RESULTS LAST FOR A minimum of six months
DOWNTIME Minimal, typically one to two days
SAFE FOR ALL SKIN TONES? Yes
HOW IT WORKS This laser can treat dark spots, acne scars and wrinkles and can even be used to remove tattoos. It uses picosecond (one-trillionth of a second) pulses of energy to target pigmentation that sits below the surface of the skin while also promoting elastin production. When the laser pulses hit the pigment in the skin, they divide it up into small particles, which the body then breaks down and discards. A PicoWay treatment can be used to address specific areas of the skin or the entire face (for a higher cost).
Additional treatment option: Chemical peel

$500 AND UNDER

CLEAR + BRILLIANT LASER
APPROXIMATE COST $350 per treatment
NUMBER OF SESSIONS REQUIRED Three to six
RESULTS LAST FOR A few months; annual or biannual sessions are recommended to maintain results
DOWNTIME One to seven days of dryness and redness
SAFE FOR ALL SKIN TONES? Yes
HOW IT WORKS A gentle laser option, Clear + Brilliant is a resurfacing treatment that uses fractional-light-based technology for general skin rejuvenation, addressing things like discoloration, uneven texture and early signs of aging. It works by creating thousands of micro-injuries in the top layers of the skin, which leads to the damaged cells being replaced with healthy new tissue. The result is a more even, glowing complexion.

INTENSE PULSED LIGHT (IPL)
APPROXIMATE COST $400 to $500 per session
NUMBER OF SESSIONS REQUIRED Three to five
RESULTS LAST FOR Six months to a year
DOWNTIME Minimal; skin may appear red and irritated for a few hours to a few days afterwards
SAFE FOR ALL SKIN TONES? Not recommended for deeper skin tones
HOW IT WORKS IPL delivers multiple wavelengths of light energy to the surface of the skin, where it breaks apart damaged cells. The skin then naturally removes these by pushing them to the surface where they slough off a few days after the treatment. IPL is most often used to treat larger areas of the skin for concerns like hyperpigmentation, melasma, sun damage, wrinkles, unwanted hair and more.

$5,000 AND UNDER

For this budget, Wong recommends doing a combination of treatments—PicoWay ($700 for a full face treatment) and Clear + Brilliant ($350)—on the same day to yield the best results.

Additional treatment option: CO2 laser resurfacing

THE CONCERN: UNEVEN SKIN TEXTURE

Some of the most common examples of uneven skin texture are acne, enlarged pores and dry patches. The telltale signs include rough, bumpy, dull-looking skin. Because there are multiple types of uneven skin texture, treatment of the condition will vary depending on the underlying cause.

$250 AND UNDER

MICRODERMABRASION
APPROXIMATE COST $150 to $250 per session
NUMBER OF SESSIONS REQUIRED One to six
RESULTS LAST FOR Two to four weeks
DOWNTIME Minimal to none; skin may appear red for a few hours afterwards
SAFE FOR ALL SKIN TONES? Yes
HOW IT WORKS Microdermabrasion is an exfoliating procedure that helps treat uneven texture, acne scarring and general dullness. An applicator with an abrasive tip is used to buff the surface of the skin to remove dead cells and debris. It’s essentially like a souped-up physical exfoliant that will leave the skin smoother, softer and more radiant.
Additional treatment options: Chemical peel and Clear + Brilliant laser

$900 AND UNDER

MICRONEEDLING WITH PRP
APPROXIMATE COST $600 to $900 per treatment
NUMBER OF SESSIONS REQUIRED Three to six
RESULTS LAST FOR A few months to a year
DOWNTIME One to two days
SAFE FOR ALL SKIN TONES? Yes
HOW IT WORKS PRP (platelet-rich plasma) has been used for years to help rejuvenate the skin. What sets this treatment apart is that it’s combined with microneedling. So rather than injecting the blood back into the skin, a roller device is used to make tiny channels in the epidermis and then the extracted PRP liquid is applied all over to help stimulate skin renewal.
Additional treatment option: Radiofrequency microneedling

$5,000 AND UNDER

For this budget, Wong and Auguste recommend CO2 laser resurfacing.

THE CONCERN: SAGGING SKIN

Just as the loss of collagen and elastin in our dermis can bring on wrinkles as we get older, it can also cause the skin to lose its bounce and firmness, giving it a lax appearance. The areas of the face that are often most affected include the cheeks (where we get jowls), eyelids, under the eyes and under the chin. Unfortunately, sagging is one of the more challenging skin concerns to treat and often requires a more in-depth treatment plan. The experts warn that less-inexpensive treatments will not yield dramatic results but can aid with prevention.

$475 AND UNDER

COLD LASER AND LED THERAPIES
APPROXIMATE COST At-home LED masks start at around $475; one in-office session costs from $40 to $150
NUMBER OF SESSIONS REQUIRED Five to 10 in-office sessions or three to five times per week for four to six weeks for at-home masks
RESULTS LAST FOR A few months once the initial bulk of sessions has been completed
DOWNTIME None
SAFE FOR ALL SKIN TONES? Yes
HOW IT WORKS Cold laser and LED therapies are similar in that they both use light wavelengths to boost cellular activity, but a cold laser can penetrate the deeper layers of the skin and be used to target specific areas of the face. LED light scatters more, so it’s ideal for treating larger surfaces and doesn’t reach quite as deeply. Both LED and cold laser help boost collagen production to give the skin a firmer, more lifted look. For LED, convenient at-home masks are available, but in-office treatments are more powerful.
Additional treatment options: Non-RF microneedling and neuromodulators

$1,500 AND UNDER

PLATELET-RICH-FIBRIN (PRF) AND PLATELET-RICH-PLASMA (PRP) INJECTIONS
APPROXIMATE COST $500 to $1,500
NUMBER OF SESSIONS REQUIRED PRF requires two sessions, while PRP requires three to six
RESULTS LAST FOR One year
DOWNTIME One to two days
SAFE FOR ALL SKIN TONES? Yes
HOW IT WORKS For this procedure, your blood is drawn, spun in a centrifuge and then injected into your face. The main difference between PRP and PRF is the speed at which the blood is spun as this determines the amount of platelets and growth factors. PRF is richer in white blood cells, stem cells and fibrin, while PRP is chock full of platelets and plasma. PRP is often used for skin-tone irregularities like hyperpigmentation, while PRF is great for addressing deeper wrinkles and sagging skin.

HYALURONIC ACID (HA) DERMAL FILLERS
APPROXIMATE COST $500 to $900 per syringe
NUMBER OF SESSIONS REQUIRED One to three
RESULTS LAST FOR Six to 18 months
DOWNTIME Minimal; there may be some swelling and bruising for one to two weeks
SAFE FOR ALL SKIN TONES? Yes
HOW IT WORKS Dermal fillers such as Restylane and Juvéderm are injected to add volume back into specific areas of the face. A substance that’s already naturally occurring in the body, hyaluronic acid gives the skin structure and helps it look plump and bouncy. Our levels begin to decrease as we age, and these fillers can restore volume loss. Areas like the cheeks, chin, lips and jawline are popular spots for fillers.
Additional treatment option: RF microneedling

$4,500 AND UNDER

POLYDIOXANONE (PDO) OR POLY-L-LACTIC ACID (PLLA) THREAD LIFT
APPROXIMATE COST $1,500 to $4,500
NUMBER OF SESSIONS REQUIRED One
RESULTS LAST FOR One year to 18 months
DOWNTIME Three to five days
SAFE FOR ALL SKIN TONES? Yes
HOW IT WORKS Known as a non-surgical facelift, this treatment uses sutures under the skin to pull back and hoist the face. Often used to target drooping in the cheeks, eyebrows, jawline and nasolabial folds, surgical threads are placed in the subcutaneous layer of the skin and act like tiny hooks to hold your skin up and minimize sagging. In addition to the lifting benefits, the sutures also incite your skin to produce more collagen, which further aids in giving the skin a more taut appearance.

BIOSTIMULATORY INJECTABLES
APPROXIMATE COST $1,800 to $2,700 per session
NUMBER OF SESSIONS REQUIRED Three
RESULTS LAST FOR One to two years
DOWNTIME Minimal; there may be some mild bruising and swelling. Wong says that with Sculptra, the area must be massaged for five minutes five times a day for five days post-treatment to ensure smooth and even results and that swelling may be more significant with Radiesse.
SAFE FOR ALL SKIN TONES? Yes
HOW IT WORKS The new frontier of injectables, biostimulatory agents such as Sculptra and Radiesse work by prompting collagen production. Over time, the biostimulatory substance helps the skin become plumper and firmer.
Additional treatment option: Dermal fillers

Editor’s note: Prices were provided by Auguste and Wong and represent average estimates. Costs can vary from one clinic to another.

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