Beauty lessons from Lucian Matis

Mar 13 2012 by
Categories : Beauty

All images courtesy of Michele Li.

Lucian Matis is remarkably calm in a crammed room at the Royal York hotel, doing last-minute sewing and ironing. He only takes a moment to check in on the beauty look for for his Fall/Winter 2012 collection. Just as calm is Smashbox makeup artist and Director of Global Pro Lead Artistry, Lori Taylor, who after blending in layer after layer of black shadow and liner on a model’s eye, gets word from Matis that he wants the look “darker and stronger to really frame the face.”

She goes back to her smoky palette and begins saturating the lid even more with black shadow flecked with just a hint of silver, showing her makeup crew the tricks. “We’re doing an intense
smoky eye, like black, black, black,” she says. “And it’s all about the shape which is kind of lifted in the inner and outer corner.” Taylor dips her brush into the darkest shadow from the
Smokebox Eye Palette to sweep over top a black cream liner base, taking a step back to look at the intensity of the colour.

The key step, she says, is
blending for this strong Fall/Winter 2012 smoky eye trend. “You want to keep the lines softer, you don’t want the colour to just stop,” says Taylor as she swipes a Q-tip along the lid creating a slightly smudged look.

To make those deep, dark eyes stand out even more, the brows were made invisible with a swipe of concealer to help them disappear into the porcelain skin. In the end the model’s blue eyes seemed to be peering from a black hole. “It’s just so dramatic, I love it,” says Taylor.

Not a look we would wear everyday, but if you’re looking to amp up your regular
smoky eye, Taylor has some tips. “The girls in LA love to wear this look out at 8am! But if you don’t want that you can take black and gray on the lid, keeping most of the drama at the top, and gray at the bottom [lash line].” You can even opt for shades of navy. “It gives you that edgy, dramatic look, but it’s more wearable.”

With such an OTT smoky eye, hair was minimal, but still needed texture. “For the hair we’re going slicked back with three small braids in the back to go with the symmetry and a
pony tail. Very minimal, simple and elegant,” Matis describes. A model walking down the runway in what appears to be a simple, sleek pony, turns and you see all the texture in the tail and dimension of the three braids. An edgy twist on the classic pony that is perfectly fitting for Matis’s mix of hand-sewn lace and feathers.
Would you wear such a dark and dramatic eye?

Categories: Beauty