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This Spring, Tailoring Takes On a Softer, More Comforting Sense of Ease

It’s impossible to live through a pandemic without changing your perspective on fashion and reimagining it to align with the inevitable lifestyle shift

by : Vanessa Craft- Mar 15th, 2021

Courtesy of St. John

During a virtual presentation for St. John’s spring/summer 2021 collection, Zoe Turner, the American luxury brand’s creative director since last April, says that she has been thinking about timelessness and how it relates to design. Turner, who honed her artistry working with some of the biggest names in fashion, including Raf Simons and John Galliano, explains that she has been maintaining “a strong focus on craft and impeccable finishes…to make beautiful, unique pieces that are there to last.” To demonstrate, the British-born designer pulls a soft-cream jacket dappled with oatmeal flecks—one of several knitwear pieces that remain elevated but offer comfort and ease—from a rack behind her. The boxy jacket has the elements of a classic piece, but its split sleeves take it in another direction.

It’s impossible to live through a pandemic without changing your perspective on fashion and reimagining it to align with the inevitable lifestyle shift. That’s why so many of St. John’s clothes are chic and polished from the waist up for Zoom calls and comfortable from the waist down. “For me, knitwear is about a more relaxed and sophisticated way to dress, and that really lends itself to our time,” says Turner. “[Fashion] doesn’t need to be serious; it needs to be more relaxed and easy. And that’s really the nature of knitwear.”

Picture: Zoe Turner used new combinations of yarn to create different textiles, like soft, compact bouclé, for maximum luxury and com- fort. A classic jacket is revisited and given split sleeves, creating a modern update that provides more ease of wear. She chose to work with a fresh, positive and feminine colour palette.