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The venue for Thomas Tait’s LFW Fall 2015 show reminded me of a subterranean refuge – a cement box that while vast, was also claustrophobic. It’s fitting that the designer chose this stark shelter to showcase a collection that he described as supernatural-meets-colloquial. Models stepped onto the concrete floors following an illuminated L-shaped pattern that was very much like a circuit board; the soundtrack was thumpingly fierce. And, there was more darkness than light throughout, which made his seemingly elementary collection a little more mysterious. Luckily, I had an interview planned with Tait to find out what had inspired him
this season. Here’s what he had to say.
What was your vision for the collection? "I wanted to do something with a vision that was kind of supernatural but when you actually started describing your garments it was a little colloquial and mundane; almost pedestrian in terms of the product category like a t-shirt dress or a jumpsuit. It was nice to find a middle ground between things that are uninteresting or unassuming and things that are unnerving, and elevate it to something that feels somewhat inhuman."
What inspired that direction? "There’s something that interests me in the works of Gregory Krutzen and Dario Argento, the film director, where things are a little undone and normal but in a way that’s terrifyingly surreal."
Tell me more about the silhouettes. "I started sketching early in the season and it just developed quite organically. I’ve been weary in certain seasons of making clothing that is too close to the body and wanted things to stand away. But the leather looks were close to the body; a lot of those were double face leather. It was interesting to suddenly do something that’s up against the body. It was a strange transition but it was very instinctual. It was very much about a feeling."
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