It was clear from the staging at Erdem’s LFW Fall 2015 show that the Canadian designer had a story to tell. The catwalk formed a thick rectangle with a centre reserved for a series of rooms, each beautifully disordered. Crumpled papers were strewn about carelessly, crystal tumblers were half filled with liquor, magazines were piled up and a suitcase lay open and half unpacked. When the models filed out for the finale, they settled in the rooms, sitting, standing, leaning. The question I wanted answered was: “Who is this woman?” And so, that’s exactly what I asked Erdem backstage after his show.
What inspired you to create such an elaborate, and strangely specific set? "It started at Frieze Masters where I was inspired by Robin Brown’s installation called
The Collector. He created an installation for a fictional character so Robin and I worked on the set for this season; it was a wonderful collaboration."
Describe the woman who inhabits the set. "She’s lots of different people. She’s people like Claudia Cardinale and Kim Novak in
Vertigo. I love the idea of this heroine coming home at the end of the night. She’s an actress or a writer or she’s coming home from the office and each outfit is a different outfit that she would wear home every night. She’s an odd intangible figure in my imagination."
If I were Erdem’s imaginary heroine, these are the looks I would wear: