Fashion Weeks

Maria Grazia Chiuri's new look at Dior

What did Dior's first female creative director dream up for her debut collection?

by : Liz Guber- Sep 30th, 2016

da3c442a-cba3-4de7-8c80-afb36fff52cf-dior-spring-summer-2017-jpg

Christian Dior’s first show helmed by newly appointed creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri (formerly of Valentino) was described as “contemporary, agile and Olympian” in the show notes. The collection leaned heavily on notions of femininity and feminism, with a sporty twist and restrained, largely monochrome colour palette occasionally broken up by pops of red and dusty pastels.

Imaxtree.com

“We Should All Be Feminists” was one of the phrases printed onto T-shirts and paired with sheer, float-y skirts. Chiuri isn’t afraid to make a statement – a literal one at that – but there’s something matter-of-fact about her message, and the way the slogan tees were paired with floaty skirts or layered under blazers. Feminism isn’t a trend or a passing fad, and Chiuri’s approach only further confirmed this.

Imaxtree.com

Chiuri also tackled logo-mania, specifically the ’90s nostalgia and Calvin Klein and Tommy comebacks that mark today’s consumer appetites. But she executed this in a very Dior way, with J’adore Christian Dior printed on straps of delicate, lingerie-style bodices and on waistbands underneath tulle skirts.

Imaxtree.com

The Olympian element was clearly visible in the quilted, mostly white ensembles that resembled fencing uniforms. Another look of note? Just-below-the-knee length bottoms that evoked bike shorts or pedal pushers.

Imaxtree.com

As for the shoes, Chiuri kept her finger on the pulse, offering Dior slides (a guaranteed sell-out, I betcha) and sweet little kitten heels (yes, they’re back) with logo-emblazoned ribbons.