Foundation may be a makeup must for most but applied incorrectly or with a heavy hand it can quickly equal a makeup mishap instead of glowing skin. Greasy, caked on, too-thick foundation is becoming one of beauty’s top faux pas. Warmer temperatures during the spring and summer months mean it’s time to lighten up that foundation load. With the heat causing your sweat glands to kick it up a notch, heavy foundation can wreak havoc on your pores. Trust us: Less is more.
We checked in with two beauty experts to find out how to get beautiful coverage on your skin without layering on too much foundation. You (and your skin) will thank us.
The switch up: Why should you change up your makeup routine in the spring?
“You should break up
your skin routine because your skin texture is usually different in the winter than it is in the spring,” says Grace Lee,
Maybelline New York Canada’s Lead Makeup Artist. “In the warmer months, there is often more humidity, and more moisture in the air. Your face is less prone to being dry. In the winter, the skin usually becomes more dry, so sometimes you need more moisturizing foundations in the winter than you would in the spring.”
Application mishaps: Common mistakes when it comes to applying foundation
According to Janine Falcon, beauty expert and founder of
Beautygeeks, there are two major mistakes that many women make when it comes to choosing and applying foundation properly. The first, she says, is wearing the wrong shade. “Too many women still use the back of their hands as a guide when swatching foundation,” says Falcon. But she says that your neck is a better place to test foundation colour, to ensure a seamless skin match all the way up to your hairline. The second big no-no is choosing the wrong coverage. “Young, naturally luminous skin completely blanketed in full-coverage opaque makeup drives me nuts,” Falcon says. “
Tinted moisturizer or sheer BB creams better show off healthy, collagen-rich skin. As we get older, though, we need products that are less sheer — at a certain point, a higher-coverage formula is simply a more efficient route to a youthful complexion.”
The best foundation alternatives (BB creams, concealer and more) on the next page …
Foundation overload: Alternatives to heavy foundation
Getting sheer coverage on your face without piling on the foundation is easy thanks to the growing selection of products on the market. How does each of them work? Here’s a breakdown of your options:
The ‘BB’ in BB cream stands for ‘blemish balm’, ‘beauty balm’ or ‘blemish base’ depending on who you ask. But whatever you call it, the principle of the product remains the same. BB creams are formulated to heal scars and blemishes and create a flawless complexion. “When using BB cream, the product doesn’t always have to be the exact colour of your skin,” says Lee. “You treat and apply BB cream as if it were a moisturizer. It is important to always blend BB cream into the pores.”
Lee recommends applying a tinted moisturizer the same way you do a BB cream. “The most important thing to keep in mind when using this product is to blend the product to achieve a sheer finish.”
Powder application can vary depending on the effect you want. “Dusting it over skin with a big fluffy powder brush will deliver a sheer finish,” says Falcon. “Patting powder into the skin with a fluffy brush, instead of sweeping it across, will result in a more matte complexion. Using a compact puff to press powder into the skin will give it an even more matte finish.”
If you wear concealer in addition to foundation, Falcon recommends applying your foundation first, then your concealer. “That will allow you to apply less concealer, and make sure it stays where you put it,” she explains. “I
dab concealer on myself with a fingertip. You can use a concealer brush if you like; use the back of your hand as a palette and a means of warming the concealer before you transfer it to your brush then skin.” Falcon says to then tap/blend concealer on dark under-eye circles, in the inner corners of eyelids and around the base of the nose to camouflage redness – and wherever else you think you need it. “To set concealer, either pat powder in place with a small fluffy brush, or press it lightly into place with a compact powder puff.”
“Love highlighters!” exclaims Lee. “When using, stick to applying on the high planes of the face, such as the top of the cheekbones, underneath the eyebrow, the inner corner of the eye and above the cupid’s lip.”
“Apply the same as you would a highlighter,” says Lee, adding that these are especially great for underneath the eye to take away the dark circles.
Why are these products better than foundation?
Lee says that these products are preferred to foundation because you need less of them. “BB creams and tinted moisturizers are more sheer,” she says. “They also provide your skin with more benefits than a foundation, as BB creams and tinted moisturizers typically have SPF and hydrating ingredients.”
Falcon agrees. “Layering lighter textures that include a bit of highlighter or illuminator give skin a transparent glow that, in spring’s more available light, looks like a healthy, luminous complexion,” she says.
Foundation dos and don’ts for summer on the next page …
Dos and don’ts for a flawless face
Grace Lee and Janine Falcon dish up their tips to ensure a flawless face every day:
Do blend, blend, blend, especially into the neck!
Do know your skin texture. Your skin texture will help determine which type of foundation you should try, for instance, powder versus liquid.
Don’t over apply! Provide your skin with coverage but keep it natural.
Don’t overdo it. Know your colour.
Do use whatever you feel is best for your skin when applying foundation – a sponge, a finger or a brush.
Do exfoliate gently a few times a week. Flawless coverage starts with smooth skin!
Do apply tinted moisturizer/BB cream/foundation before concealer so you can use less concealer.
Do use a stick concealer with a fine-tipped brush to cover zits; blend out into the area surrounding it. Dip a flat powder puff or a fluffy blush into translucent powder and press it over the skin to set the concealer without disturbing it.
Do dab concealer into those dark inner corners of your upper eyelids and over any redness around the base of the nose and under the lower lip if need be.
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