Spring is not the time to play it safe when it comes to eye makeup. This season, the Spring/Summer 2012 runways ran rampant with
fresh new ways of sporting your basic liner. Our expert conclusion? There’s a sweep of eyeliner that’s perfect you, whether you prefer the daring, graphic takes at Marni, John Richmond and Richard Nicoll or the ultra-fem, flirty looks at Jonathan Saunders, Talbot Runhof and Ruffian.
We enlisted the help of M.A.C. Senior Artist Caitlin Callahan to navigate through three of spring’s most covetable
From left to right: Marios Schwab, John Richmond, Frankie Morello
1. TREND: Graphic
Eyeliner can do so much more than swish upward in cat-eye fashion. Case in point: The bold choices at John Richmond, Marios Schwab and Frankie Morello. We’re talking thick lines, square and angular shapes, and playful liners on the lower lash. The looks, while ideal for those who like a second glance, may not be office-friendly. But everyone can have a little graphic fun for a night out.
Copy the look: Marios Schwab
“Start with a beige pencil inside the eye,” says Callahan. “Using an eyeliner brush (like M.A.C’s #210), apply black cream liner under the lashes and out towards the temple. Keep a space between the upper and lower lines. The upper line follows the same path. Use a Q-tip to clean the space between the liners.”
From left to right: Moschino, Anne Valerie Hash, House of Holland.
2. TREND: Grunge
The ‘90s are back in full swing— from the sleek straight, center-parted hair to the smudged eyeliner at Anne Valerie Hash and House of Holland. To keep the look fresh and modern, try a thinly smudged line, or opposite colour choices for the top and lower lash lines.
Copy the look: House of Holland
“Using Boot Black Liner or Blacktrack Fluidline, apply a thick line from one corner of the eye to the other,” says Callahan. “Layer two to three times to get the depth of colour. Use a Q-tip dipped in makeup remover to finish the end and make the edges crisp.”
Opt for a girlie wisp of eyeliner on the next page …
From left to right: Talbot Runhof, Jonathan Saunders, Louise Gray
3. TREND: Girlie
Nothing says flirt quite like winged liner. To embrace the feminine looks on the runways (pastels, florals, lace), designers opted for an equally romantic finish on the eye. Louise Gray took winged liner out of its boundaries with shades of mint green, bright pink and creamy blue. “Coloured pencils are the biggest spring trend, but they should be applied sparingly,” explains Callahan. “A little bit on the inside corner or just along the water line. It should be smudged around the eye, but not accompanied by shadows. Talbot Runhof’s thin line of black liquid liner was the perfect balance to a clean face, while Jonathan Saunder’s thick winged liner added drama with a ladylike touch.
Copy the look: Jonathan Saunders
“If you’re feeling nervous about this one, use a nude pencil (my favourite is Fling Brows pencil) to trace out the shape or just put two dots where the shape will end,” suggests Callahan. You can use either a cream or liquid liner to cover the entire lid with the black liner. Wing out the liner up toward the eyebrow. Clean up any mishaps with a Q-tip dipped in eye makeup remover. This look is both girlie and a standout, but definitely worth a try. As Callahan says, “Be brave!”
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