“Have you heard of polyglutamic acid?” asks Colette Newberry, co-founder of new British skincare brand The Inkey List, named for the phonetic pronunciation of INCI, the acronym for International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients. We had not. But the ingredient, a super-hydrator you’d usually find in “a crazy-premium brand,” is to be the star of the next product churned out of the brand’s speedy 12- to 18-week production cycle.

In the vein of Deciem’s The Ordinary and Marcia Kilgore’s Beauty Pie, The Inkey List offers low-cost, low-frills skincare that focuses on the ingredients rather than the marketing. This commitment to accessible price points is how the line wound up on Canadian shelves before anywhere else in the world—retailers elsewhere wanted fancier packaging.

Here’s to knowing a good thing when you see it.