PFW Spring 2014: Backstage Beauty at Issey Miyake. Elegant Mohicans & Emotional Makeup
Eugene Souliemann, Wella’s Global Creative Director, is having fun with hair in Paris. Earlier this week at Rochas, he created Adams Family-esq messy bouffants and yesterday he styled the models at Issey Miyake in "elegant mohicans" with
double French rolls and textured tails. The thought behind this style is just as detailed as the hair itself. The look is strong, but with subtleties to it, like the combination of textures—matte at the back ("to give it a sense of movement in a natural way") and shine at the front and sides. "We didn’t want something too ornate, that would seem old fashioned," Souliemann said backstage. "There’s a lot of light in Issey’s collection so I wanted an element of shine to the hair to play off the light." It’s important to note, this is not the dosed and drenched
wet look of recent hair trend times – think satiny, sophisticated shine.
Click through to see more pics from PFW Spring 2014…
The tender, fresh makeup look from Issey Miyake Spring 2014.
Bonus note: Always one for a cheeky joke, Souliemann added that because the hair is pulled quite taut, "it does give the girls a bit of a face lift." Good to know, as these models were starting to look way over the age of 19. cough. On the makeup side, MAC artist Alex Box had an equally directional approach, which consisted of
illuminated skin with highlighted cheekbones created using a wide brush so strokes would be "lyrical" and "balletic." In short, this was about emotion. (Yes, makeup can have feelings. This is
fashion, people.) "This is makeup that is very tender," she said thoughtfully to the group of journalists gathered around. "It’s actually more about the ‘memory’ of makeup than anything else. It’s this poetic idea of a forgotten moment. The makeup is a feeling more than a technique… It’s not easy for the team when I tell them that," she admitted. "It’s like telling someone how to love somebody else. It’s just a transient idea of something that is more felt than seen."