PFW Fall 2013: Backstage beauty (and bread bowls) at Anthony Vaccarello and Aganovich
Welcome to Paris! The weather forecast this week is rainy and cold and grey, but I have high hopes that the beauty looks backstage will be considerably brighter (and more inspiring.) If not, there’s always the catering stations.
Anthony Vaccarello – "The morning after the night before" On arrival at Anthony Vaccarello, I found an unusual scene: a room full of hair and makeup artists relaxing at their various stations with nary a model in sight. "As usual, they’re late. Always late," said the languidly, ever-chill Tom Pecheux, Estée Lauder’s makeup magician. Using a face chart in absence of a human, Pecheux talked me through the monochromatic look for the show. The lip was created with two layers of
lipstick (Pure Color Long Lasting Lipstick in Plum Couture and Pure Color Vivid Shine Lipstick in Hot Lava) with a layer of translucent powder in between to dampen down the shine a little. "You have the contrast of the metallics from the lipstick without a creamy shine," Pecheux said, adding that they had not used any mascara or liner on the eyes, just a burgundy wine frame of colour. "We wanted the girls to be very strong, very powerful – the clothes are black or white and there is an element of roughness – it’s not romantic." This element of roughness came through in the hair as well. Brit stylist Anthony Turner told his crew that he alone wanted to finish every single
messy knot on every single model before they went out the door. His team could, he allowed, prep the girls by running products through hair and rough drying– but after that, the buns belonged to him. It was an attention to detail he wanted to control as the look was very specific.
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"It’s the quintessential sexy French woman," he explained of the matte, unfussy look. "It
was really neat, but she went out at night and had a bit of an adventure… and now she’s walking home so it’s a little bit roughed up. We’ve all done that!" he added nudging me in the shoulder. (Moi? Never.)
Sexy post-party French women is all well and good, but I had entered the "chew off arm" stage of hunger so after bidding adieu to acting like a professional, I went on a mission to find the catering station. That’s where I discovered this:
And all was right with the world.
Aganovich – "Jewellery for the lips"
Backstage at Aganovich, I traded jet lag war stories with American editors before having a quick chat with MAC Cosmetics key artist Max Delorme about the forward-focused face going on. The face was bare with a gorgeous gold lining over the cupid’s bow of the mouth. "The makeup is almost like nothing –
beautiful skin, with a metallic shimmery colour on the top of the lips- a futuristic way to wear lipstick," he said. "Like jewellery for the lips."
Key product: MAC Cosmetics Pigment in Old Gold
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