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Pat McGrath on getting the Gucci look
When it comes to boldface backstage names, Pat McGrath is as big as it gets. The British-born makeup artist is hugely influential in fashion, responsible for the looks at some of the biggest shows in the world. Dolce & Gabbana, Dior, Louis Vuitton, Prada, Lanvin, Yohji Yamamoto, Mark Jacobs and YSL to name but a few. She’s the motherlode, basically.
Every season, I look forward to discovering what McGrath’s beauty direction will be for Gucci. She always comes up with such directional, intense, edgy and beautiful looks for the Italian house. (I kind of lost my mind over
the crazy spider lashes and red mouth for Fall 2011 — AH-mazing!)
This season is no different. Granted, the above look isn’t for everyone (bleaching your brows is a
major beauty investment – and you’ll end up pissing off Tom Pecheux and
Dick Page), but sometimes, a Saturday night out requires an eye that means business. Who says you can only wear a heavy, shaped smoky eye in the fall? "It’s something different," McGrath admitted to me when we met in Toronto earlier this year. "Bleaching the brows and keeping the lips nude and bare gives you a whole new feel." As for creating that intense eye, (which McGrath labels as "the new smoke"), it’s all about keeping the shape smaller and less blended that the typical big, smoky eye –think a thicker lid
loaded with eyeliner. Not convinced about doing a 70s style punky look for your next garden party? Let me direct you to the McGrath version of a classic face for
Dior’s Spring/Summer 2012 show. It was
groomed brows, perfect skin and a red lip done to perfection – a look that never dates. Here’s how to do it: "Put foundation on to prime and prep the eye, with a little bit of concealer," says McGrath. "Then add a light soft brown shadow in the socket of the eye, around and under it. Then draw a dark brown pencil close to the lash, and little bit on the under part of your eye and smudge that using your fingers. Then just add mascara. Finally, highlight the brow bone just in the center and that’s a real classic eye. A pencil, a shadow, a highlighter and a good mascara."