Hyper precise shading at the Fall 2014 Marc Jacobs show. Image courtesy Imaxtree.com
Throughout NYFW, we’ve seen our fair share of
restrained, delicate beauty. But that notion was turned on its head and taken 10 steps further at Marc Jacobs last night when he executed head-to-toe tonality at his Fall 2014 show. Genius duo of hairstylist Guido Palau and the illustrious face painter François Nars told us the beauty look came direct from the finishes, fabrics and colours in the very soothing collection. The skin was kept matte, using plenty of translucent powder so the finish was "almost like plaster, like porcelain," to go with the matte clothing on the runway. Nars says the biggest focus was on the eye. "I wanted the girls to look like those Greek statues that have no lashes at all," he says. (WICKED reference, right?!) "The eyelid is made as big as possible by applying a light grey colour over the eyelid and then deepening the crease with a pale chocolate brown, and a little bit of brown shadow on the top lashes to extend the eye." Lips were a "transparent beige with a little touch of frosted metallic silver." Sounds awful, but is actually excellent. Eyebrows were bleached and toned to match the hair colour. "Eyebrows aren’t very important, but they’re not disappearing." In terms of hair, Guido blew the minds of beauty editors worldwide by pre-cutting and dying wigs in five different shades that were impossible to categorize. "If you look at them all together they look like they all sort of merge but they’re not the same," he said. "It’s almost like makeup shades. We wanted shades of hair that you couldn’t quite tell what the colour was." From "minky blond and silvery brown", Palau said they were more like "off,
colours, like an anthracite." Wigs were pre-cut and dyed "like those watercolours rinses that old ladies used to put into hair" and cut again once affixed to each model. The shape is simple and graphic. "It’s so perfect it looks futuristic, but there’s not quite an era reference when you look at the girls," he noted. "I
t’s quite eerie as well, it’s kind of unsettling, kind of emotional, very graphic hair beyond colour." Five custom blended nude nail polishes were created the night before the show. Nail artist Marian Newman told us the the soon-to-be named Marc Jacobs Beauty nail polish shades will be available at Sephora in the fall. The "immaculately understated" nails were completely uniform for each model, with the length extending slightly from the finger and shaped "straight at the sides with a gentle round," said Newman. The colours worn by each model were determined by the colours in the outfit they were wearing, with shades ranging from a really pale porcelain to purple-y chocolate. Let’s just leave it at, #beautydeathbedmemory.