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NYFW 2014 Backstage Beauty: Zebra-inspired hair at Rodarte
I remember where I was when I first spotted leopard-print hair. I was with our associate editor Alannah O’Neill (leaning over her computer in her cubicle, to be exact) and we were gasping over the cheetah pattern on the hair of the models at the
Jean Paul Gaultier Couture show. Spunky hairstylist Odile Gilbert was up to her wild tricks again this week at the Rodarte show at New York Fashion Week. With her "genius" assistant, she used stencils to spray "black on blonde; white on black" metallic zebra stripes on extensions, then fixed them to one side of models’ heads. Then things got a little bit ’80s, when Gilbert and her team blow-dried the hair using a brush and lots of John Frieda Frizz-Ease Curl Reviver Styling Mousse, "like women in the ’80s would style their hair" then did a deep side part, creating a wave with a large-barrel curling iron. Model Soo Joo Park was a photographer favourite, since the print was most eye-catching against her
platinum strands. Hilarious footnote: When one editor asked if this was the same as Gaultier, she swiftly corrected her, with a stern look on her face (that soon gave away to a toothy smile)— "that was cheetah, this is zebra—I don’t mix up my animals."
Keep reading about the ’80s-influenced makeup after the jump…
"The Mulleavy sisters decided to do a collection inspired by the real LA," says James Kaliardos for NARS. "So we decided to do a wild LA girl who has
brushed up brows which are going quite vertical, black eyeliner with more on the outer corner." "The eyeliner has a very specific shape. We’re starting the eyeliner where the eyelashes start—not all the way in. It gets thicker toward the outer upper lid but not cat eye—more like straight out—and in about a third in the bottom." As for the brushed up brows? "I wanted a really hairy eyebrow," says Kaliardos. The team used NARS Black Valley eye paint, Via Veneto Larger than Life Eyeliner and Rue Bonaparte Larger than Life Eyeliner. The animalistic feel was pushed further as Kaliardos used two NARS Multiples—two soon-to-be-launched shades called Altai Matte Multiple and Anguilla Matte on the cheeks. "We used one to contour, and one as a blush—so we’re putting two stripes on the cheek and blending that," says Kaliardos.
For lips, the team layered NARS Biscayne Park Satin Lip Pencil and Floralies Satin Lip Pencil.
The animalistic feel was pushed further tortoiseshell manicure by Sally Hansen, mixing the shades Cinnamon and Clay. Later, leopard! Manicurist Tracylee created the look by sponging on the shades Cinnamon and Clay, following with a
high-shine top coat.