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Makeup tips: How to fake full brows
In nearly every photo of today’s top models you will see one distinctive, youthful feature. Almost all of them have gorgeously thick, seemingly never plucked, bushy, envy-inducing brows. We’re talking about Cara Delevingne’s famous pair, Arizona Muse’s thick set and the stunners that Lily Collins sports. While genetics may not have blessed you with half-inch thick, full brows, there are still ways to rock what your mother and father gave you – and ways to
make those sparse brows appear a bit fuller. We enlist the help of eyebrow pro Claudia Soare, president of Anastasia Beverley Hills for her makeup tips on creating (and faking) a set of full brows.
“Full brows are brows that hug your brow bone, start from the front of your eyes and end at a 45-degree angle to the corner of your eyes,” explains Soare. “A full brow is the same width throughout with the exception of the highest point of the arch, which is slightly thinner and the ends of the brow ‘the tail’.”
Put those tweezers down and follow these steps and makeup tips.
Eyebrow shaping: For the over pluckers
You know who you are. If you spend your mornings thinking if you pluck just a few more hairs out of your brow it will look perfect – only to end up with a overly thinned out brow, don’t fret. There is a fix.
“Fill in your brows daily,” advises Soare. “Women punish themselves by walking around with over tweezed sparse brows unfilled, its like sitting at home waiting for the perfect man to ring your door bell. You have to get up every day, fill in your arch to that desired shape so you don’t cringe when you walk past a mirror.”
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Eyebrow shaping: Pick the correct colour
Just like foundation that is a shade or two off your natural skin colour can throw your whole beauty look off kilter, so can the wrong hue you choose to fill in your brows. Soare says there are a few things to consider first.
“First consider how you wear your makeup,” says Soare. “If natural is your thing, than choose a shade that is 1-2 shades lighter than your own brow hair as product darkens after 30 minutes or so, as brows are situated on the t-zone and forehand which are two of the oiliest zones of our face. As you sweat, the oil and powder mix and the pigment gets darker.” If uping the dramatic factor is your thing, Soare says “choose a shade that is closest you your hair or darker to bump up the intensity.”
Tips on using brow pencils and powder for the best look on the next page …
Eyebrow shaping: Pencil, powder, or both?
“You need both for the ideal brow,” insists Soare. “Pencil is perfect to outline the bottom and top of your arch, which sets the shape. Powder is a better and more natural choice to fill in between the outline [natural look] unless you have no hair at all, in which case you will use pencil.” Finsih up the look and get it polished by going over any sparse areas once more with the pencil. “This will separate you from other over tweezers that fill in a heavy brow using too much pencil,” says Soare.
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Eyebrow shaping: From thin to thick
After outlining your brows as above, it’s all about layering and blending. “If your brow is a thick line and very sparse on top or bottom, use Anastasia’s Brow Wiz pencil to draw a line along the sparse zone. Next, using the brow comb on the opposite end of the pencil comb the powder up or down very gently. This adds color to the brow in the most natural way without overbuilding a brow [ideal for sparse]. If this isn’t enough, go over the entire brow with powder to blend the shade and cover any sparse spots.”
Eyebrow shaping: the next level of bold brows
Jean Paul Gaultier (fall 2013) took brows to new heights with darkly drawn on, thick boyish brows in an almost black shade. While that might be a bit over-the-top for your office, it can be a fun look to play with for a night out.
“This is all about intensity. For this I would suggest Anastasia’s Brow Pen, which is a marker for brows that can draw directly onto the skin. Draw your ideal arch shape; next use brow powder to fill in and brow wiz to touch up spots that are light [where there is just skin and pencil and no hair]. Last step is to use the Tinted Brow Gel to add color and volume for the entire brow.”
Eyebrow shaping: In a nutshell
Soare’s top three tips for gorgeous brows ever day?
1. “Use product daily.”
2. “Outline your arch with highlighter or concealer for definition.”
3. “Brow Wiz creates, Brow Powder colors, and Tinted Brow Gel highlights.. These are the must have products for bold brows.”