Show: Tom Ford
Show: Brock Collection
Show: Jeremy Scott
The Look: "It's all about skin and grooming," M.A.C Cosmetics makeup artist Kabuki told us backstage. "The crystals are there to give a feeling of playfulness." The colour of the crystals were quite considered, matched as closely as possible to the skin colour of each model (no one's skin tone exactly matches a crystal, he concedes). "This stopped it from going too Showgirl," says Kabuki. Lashes were curled, but no mascara was applied, and brows were brushed up "to give a bit of a lift."
Show: Jason Wu
Show: Tory Burch
Show: Tanya Taylor
Show: Sies Marjan
Show: Prabal Gurung
Show: Alexander Wang
The Look: The inspiration for this season's Wang girl was "unique beauty," says makeup artist Diane Kendal. A bevy of new products in the beloved NARS shade Orgasm, set to be released in spring 2018, were used for the look, including NARS Orgasm Afterglow Lip Balm and Orgasm Illuminating Loose Powder (used on both cheeks and eyes). Climax Mascara, also launching next spring, was used on lashes.
Show: Philipp Plein
Show: Cushnie et Ochs
Show: Victoria Beckham
The Look: "Balm-y, healthy, highlight-y, glow-y," was how makeup artist Pat McGrath described the look backstage at Victoria Beckham. "Victoria wanted it to look fresh and be all about skincare," she explained. McGrath used products from Beckham's second collection with Estée Lauder, which just hit shelves that week. Aura Gloss was applied on the eyelids, Lash Ink Mascara in Blackest on the lashes and nude eyeliner on the waterline. A nude lipstick in the shade Victoria was applied then tissued off.
Show: Jonathan Simkhai
Show: Fenty Puma
Show: Jason Wu Grey
The Look: "Jason is having a freckle moment," Maybelline makeup artist Grace Lee told us backstage as she dotted light brown freckles on a model. (Both this show and Wu's Jason Wu collection featured them.) To create a look reminiscent of the "quintessential New York girl," Lee dabbed Maybelline Lip Studio Shine Shot Gloss in Clear on eyelids. "Apply it a little above the lash line," she cautioned, "because gravity will bring it down a bit."
Show: Public School
Show: 3.1 Phillip Lim
Show: Derek Lam
Show: Alice and Olivia
The Look: This season, eight artists created eight different installations that comprised the set of the show. Thirty models were given a pared-down look (Maybelline Baby Lips Lip Balm, Great Lash Mascara in Clear on brows, a berry lip stain and a little taupe shadow from The Nudes Eyeshadow Palette) to complement, not distract from, the bright floral patterns. The rest were given a more smouldering look, created by ringing the eyes with Eyestudio Master Kajal Eyeliner in Onyx Rush, then diffusing the colour with fingers. "I want the colour concentrated along the lash line," Maybelline makeup artist Erin Parsons told us backstage. "Using the fingers does that, and creates a sheerness on the lid."
Show: Coach
Show: Badgley Mischka
Show: Monse
Show: Carolina Herrera
Show: Oscar de la Renta
Show: Tadashi Shoji
Show: Christian Siriano
Show: Anna Sui
Show: Naeem Khan
Show: Jill Stuart
Show: Creatures of the Wind
The Look: Makeup artist Mark Carrasquillo used NARS eyelid primers (set to come out in 2018) in shades that matched the models skin tones to matte out their eyelids for a modern take on sun-kissed beauty. "You know how you put bronzer across the centre of your face? When we made the lid neutral, it made the skin pop," he told us backstage. "It was like a reverse trick—the lid going matte made it feel like the cheek got brighter and more luminous."
Show: Helmut Lang
Show: Delpozo
Show: Marc Jacobs
The Look: The inspiration for the show was the juxtaposition of couture and sportswear, makeup artist Diane Kendal told us backstage. Models were given "fresh and luminous skin," but the look was all about the eyes, she said. "Every girl has Marc Jacobs Beauty Highliner Eye Crayon in the waterline, and then we are shaping the eye with the Magic Marc [Liquid Eyeliner]." There were six different variations of the winged liner, tailored to the models individual eye shapes.
Show: Marchesa
Show: Michael Kors
Show: Ulla Johnson
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