Backstage at Dior spring/summer 2017
That particular ready-to-wear show was a big, historic deal. It was the much-lauded debut of Maria Grazia Chiuri, the first female designer to ever lead Dior, and Philips’ first time collaborating with her. Chiuri’s boldly feminist and confident clothing required a look that referenced models in their natural state of beauty, and Philips created a luminous, skin-focused makeup collection. He calls the spring makeup, which features natural-pink lips and a soft eye rimmed with a touch of mascara, “a starting point that plays with the radiance of a natural yet confirmed femininity.”
Backstage at Dior spring/summer 2017
Although this is a new era for Dior, looking back through history is why Paris-based Philips is in New York. Later this evening, he will attend the star-studded launch of The Art of Color, a tome of artistic reference and colour – the kind you’d expect to see sitting atop a Jean Pascaud sideboard with a Kandinsky hanging above. Featuring interviews, art history and images from three of Dior’s creative directors of makeup, Serge Lutens (1967–1980), Tyen (1980–2014) and Philips, the book is a comprehensive reminder of the house’s legacy. Working on this project, Philips says, reconnected him with his roots as an artist. “Audacity, creativity and vision are at the heart of Dior,” he explains. “This is a daring house with unconventional beauty shoots that have been going on here since day one.”
As Philips’ career has evolved, so has the world of beauty. “Now when we talk about the fashion and beauty industries, it’s a big machine,” he says. “There’s a danger that you’ll lose the creative part, that you’ll lose the visionary part. It’s easy to fall back on [chasing] easy sales.” Does that mean he is always focused on the next big thing? He shakes his head. “I don’t try to create the trend. I create products that guarantee beauty.”
The Art of Color is a celebration of glorious, outspoken colour and artistry by Dior creative directors past and present. ($150), at chapters.indigo.ca.