Lucia Pica, Chanel’s new global creative makeup and colour designer.
The historic Somerset House in London, England.
Her debut fall/winter 2016 collection for the French fashion powerhouse. The 15-piece collection includes a semi-transparent red nail polish inspired by melting wax and a matte-velvet eyeshadow palette to create “a mood” around the eyes.
“I use makeup to reflect a character, not to create a disguise. I did a course at Greasepaint Makeup Academy in London, and I worked the night shift at Cafe Boheme in Soho. I called my agent every day asking if I could work as an assistant to some of the biggest makeup artists on their books. I was naive but full of passion and curiosity; I knew [assisting] was the best way to develop and to gain experience in the industry. I was offered the opportunity to work with makeup artist Charlotte Tilbury, and that is how it all started. In 2008, I began working at Pop Magazine and then on the runway looks for House of Holland.
My role at Chanel involves creating all the makeup collections and working on all the beauty campaigns, including those with Chanel faces like Kristen Stewart. My first collection for fall/winter 2016 was inspired by red – my obsession and one of my favourite colours. It made sense to start somewhere personal for me but also with something that is a pillar of the house. Coco Chanel used to say, ‘Put your red lipstick on and attack!’ To her, red meant power. It does to me too, but it also means vulnerability, excitement, intensity – all of the different moods we go through and emotions we feel as women. The Chanel woman is sophisticated, forward-thinking and intelligent, and she knows what she wants. She’s not a woman to be told what to do or think. My philosophy is to embrace who you are, to enhance what is there. There is strength in imperfection; there are nuances in someone or something. I believe in happy accidents and spontaneity in life. It’s okay if an eyeshadow or eyeliner moves!”
Above and below: Images from Pica’s mood board, including a photograph of red paint injected into water. “The transformation of colours from a deep red to an orangey red literally created the entire family of Rouge Allure lipsticks,” she says.