Remember the whole natural no-mascara thing? Drop that. “It’s all about a girl who went too far with eyelash extensions and lash-treatment serum,” said makeup artist Tom Pecheux at Marni, where forest-like lashes were the focus. Ditto at Marc Jacobs, where François Nars wanted girls to “look like they haven’t been sleeping maybe for a few days and they’ve been piling on mascara and not removing it”—something we’ve only done once or twice ourselves, naturally. Tip: For super-thick lashes, add powder between coats—you’ll need about six.
Marni, Joe Fresh Lash Define Mascara in Black ($8), at select Loblaws; CoverGirl Plumpify Mascara by blastPRO in Very Black ($13), at drugstores and mass-market retailers; Clinique Chubby Lash Fattening Mascara in Jumbo Jet ($20), at clinique.ca; Tweezerman ProCurl Eyelash Curler ($27.50), at sephora.ca.
This season’s hair ethos? “It’s all about personality, individuality and respecting whatever the hair does,” said Laurent Philippon, hairstylist for Bumble and Bumble, backstage at Lacoste, who was using product only to add weight and texture to the models’ hair. At Alexander Wang, Guido Palau, global creative director for Redken, echoed that sentiment: “The whole vibe Alex wanted was very real.” (And if your natural hair is, well, underwhelming? Consider a cut. Palau chopped about 10 models’ hair for added oomph.) The models who led the your-hair-but-better/keeping-it-real charge: Mica Arganaraz, Lineisy Montero and Maria Borges.
“More gold,” makeup artist Pat McGrath was heard exclaiming backstage about her forget-me-not lip at Prada—a call to arms for this season’s must-have metallics. The hue was dusted on eyelids at Alice + Olivia and given a party-girl incarnation at Creatures of the Wind. At Maison Margiela, McGrath drew platinum geometric bedroom eyes, while at Delpozo silver glitter was sprinkled on eyelids. To avoid looking like C-3PO and a disco ball’s love child, keep skin dewy and play up only one feature.
Prada, Physicians Formula Shimmer Strips Custom Eye Enhancing Extreme Shimmer Shadow & Liner in Gold Nude ($15.79), at drugstores and mass-market retailers; H&M Glitter Dust in Mirror Ball and Shooting Star ($8 each), at hm.com; Pat McGrath Labs Gold 001 ($57), at patmcgrath.com.
Retire the phrase “I woke up like this” for spring. Colour is officially back. Blue was the It hue (see Jonathan Saunders, Giamba, Sonia Rykiel and company), but the runway still offered up a variety of rainbow brights. Kabuki, makeup artist for Manish Arora, framed eyes with prismatic purples and neons, while at Monique Lhuillier lids were bluntly lined with emerald green or cyan blue. Try using a saturated cream or gel liner if you’re ready to go bold, and don’t be afraid of DIY: At Issey Miyake, Alex Box brushed liquid pigment on temples and blew through a straw to create a unique splash of colour. “It’s more of an artist’s stroke for applying liner. It’s not traditional, which I think is really pretty,” said Melissa Gibson, senior artist for M.A.C Cosmetics.
Issey Miyake, M.A.C Cosmetics Flamingo Park Powder Blush in This Could Be Fun ($26), at maccosmetics.com; Clinique Lid Pop in Surf Pop ($20), at clinique.ca; NARS Dual-Intensity Eye Shadow in Tarvos ($36), at narscosmetics.com.
Luxe embellishments were the highlight of this season’s come-as-you-are hair movement. At Rodarte, the placement of two metallic barrettes was the models’ prerogative, as long as they wore them “in unexpected ways, so it’s a bit strange, a bit interesting,” said hairstylist Odile Gilbert. At Chanel, headbands crowned hair that was left loose or pulled back into bow-tie-topped ponytails, while at Dolce & Gabbana, Miu Miu and Saint Laurent, some models wore actual crowns.
Braids went two ways this season: Coachella-bound, like Gilbert’s “unstructured folk-rock-musician”-inspired twists at Altuzarra and TRESemmé ambassador Orlando Pita’s “relaxed” crown pony at Hervé Léger “with purposely-pulled-out loose pieces.” Or, decidedly not: At Proenza Schouler, Anthony Turner, hairstylist for Bumble and Bumble, wanted braids to feel “tough” and scraped the hair back into a tight, low ponytail before braiding. “It’s not romantic,” he said. “She means business.
“It’s a slightly cartoony lip,” said Dick Page of the striking red mouth at the Acne Studio show in Paris. Page, Shiseido’s long-running artistic director of makeup, custom mixed the rich cherry colour using the brand’s Perfect Rouge Lipstick in Dragon Red and a bright-red lab sample. Red, from carmine to crimson, was ubiquitous on the spring runways and had an edgy feel to its application. McGrath, global creative design director for CoverGirl, created “back-lit” lips at Miu Miu using a burgundy pencil and poppy lipstick. Her inspiration? The English street girls of the ’70s with a tough attitude.