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Hair styles: Volume control
TURN UP THE VOLUME
Fine hair doesn’t have to be flat and limp. Here are some tips on how to pump up the volume.
Understand your hair. “Most of us have combination hair, limp at the roots/dry ends. In this case you need to specifically address scalp and base of hair with your choice of volumizing shampoo, then find a heavier more moisturizing conditioner and only apply to mid-shaft and ends,” says Cyndi Isaac, salon director of Eveline Charles in Calgary.
Maintain a hands-off policy. “Keep your hands out of your hair throughout the day as the natural oils on your hands may weigh the hair down,” adds Cyndi.
Use the right products right where they’re needed. “Start by blow-drying about 20 percent of the water out of your hair,” says Tony Ricci, founder of Ricci Hair Co. in Edmonton. “Then apply your volume product. I love Tecniart Volume Lift by L’Oreal Professionnel. Its directional applicator allows you to get the product right at the roots, which is where fine hair needs it. Keep blow-drying your hair until it is almost dry, then use a round brush to add some height.”
Don’t go overboard with your blow dryer setting. “The dryer should be medium-hot. If it’s too hot, the heat will electrify fine hair and make it static-y,” says Ludovic Jan, owner of Opus Salon in Vancouver.
Give your hair a fresh, clean start. “Make sure you’re using a shampoo that doesn’t weigh your hair down,” says Kathryn Lenarduzzi, a stylist at Blonde Salon in Toronto. Look for a light, deep cleansing shampoo. Kathryn swears by using Kevin Murphy Maxi.Wash once a week.
Get rolling. Louis Hechter, founder and director of Orbite Salon in Montreal, recommends using a roll brush or hot rollers to increase volume on fine hair. When blowdrying your hair, “roll your hair and then loosen the roll to release the brush and use a hair clip to clip the roll into place and then do the second layer of hair,” he says. “Let it cool down—go eat your breakfast, for example—and then remove the clips and shake out your hair,” says Louis. Using this method will give soft, natural volume without twisting the hair too much. If you prefer to use hot rollers, he suggests starting the roller at the middle of your hair—not at the ends—to add volume rather than intense curl.
TURN DOWN THE VOLUME
Thick locks with some frizz issues to go with it? Here’s how to get a handle on controlling your unruly head of hair.
Perfect your blow-drying technique. “When styling this type of hair you need to really learn to work with your brush as you dry and be careful to always direct the air from your dryer down the hair shaft, not up. (this closes the cuticle creating smoother, shinier hair),” says Cyndi Isaac, salon director of Eveline Charles in Calgary.
Stock up on the right products for the job. “Using a smoothing product before blow-drying or air-drying can help [keep your hair smooth, shiny and frizz-free],” says Tony Ricci, winner of this year’s North American Hair Stylist of the Year. Ricci’s recommendation: Tecniart Liss Control by L’Oreal Professionnel.
Own the right tools and products. “I fully blow dry thick hair and then I take a flat iron and iron the hair section by section, using Redken Iron Silk 07—a heat-activated protector product. At the end I finish with Redken Glass 01, a smoothing serum,” says Ludovic Jan, owner of Opus Salon in Vancouver.
Get familiar with using your flat-iron. You’re probably already using a flat-iron to smooth down your frizz, but don’t overdo it. Louis Hechter of Orbite Salon in Montreal and L’Oreal editorial stylist for luxury brands only uses it on the bottom half of his clients’ thick hair. “Because of the shampoo, conditioner and product you’ve already prepped your hair with, you don’t need to flat-iron at the roots and make it too flat,” says Louis. “I just work from the mid-length down to the tips following the movement of the hair to finish it off nicely and bring out the shine,” he says.
Invest in a Brazilian blowout. “This smoothing treatment lasts up to three months. It’s designed for over-processed, coloured hair that tends to frizz,” says Kathryn Lenarduzzi, a stylist at Blonde Salon in Toronto. “Hard-to-control hair will benefit from it, too.” This 90-minute treatment involves having the Brazilian blowout amino-acid-complex products applied to your damp hair, followed by a blow dry and flat iron. At home, you maintain the look with the stash of blowout products that you’re sent home from the salon with. This treatment (which starts from $350) is said to be a gentler treatment than the Japanese blowout, with the added bonus of being able to return to your regular activities right away (compared to the Japanese version, which requires 48 hours of not doing anything to your hair).
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