Photography by IMAXTree (models) & Geoffrey Ross (products)
This is the time for a major shift in your makeup mood. The rich colours and strong, feminine looks on the catwalks are going to push you out of your cosmetics comfort zone—they’re too stunning and covetable not to inspire. The beautiful tear-duct dip at DSquared2 will have you finally taking a chance on that shimmery copper shade in your eyeshadow palette. Getting playful with makeup is also a must-do after the Giorgio Armani show—who knew a Clockwork Orange-style liner could be so chic? Pushing the credo that perfection is not only boring but also undesirable, Lanvin and Narciso Rodriguez showcased makeup that was edgy and undone, with bare skin and smudgy shadow. And you can’t do fall without a red lip. To make an elegant, feminine statement, go straight to the classic, fully dressed mouth. See Gucci or Giles Deacon and get strutting.
Before you decide where to take your ideas (and your eyeliner), we asked Dick Page, Pat McGrath, Peter Philips and Tom Pecheux— the biggest makeup rock stars in the business— to give us an insider’s view on what inspired our favourite looks to try this fall.
“I think ‘Why not?’ are probably the two most important words in makeup,” Page told us. “As we get older, we grow out of opportunities to play with things. Just enjoy it, and have fun with it.”
You heard the man. Now go forth and powder.
LOOK 1: SHADOW PLAY
It was all luxe at Chanel, where Peter Philips, global creative director, showcased futuristic metallics with satiny shades of green against Karl Lagerfeld’s dark, apocalyptic fashion vision. We love the look of pairing flawless skin with a wash of rich, reflective colour—and don’t get us started on the wait-listguaranteed peacock-inspired polish. Lush hues of green, aubergine and blue were also seen at 3.1 Phillip Lim, Roberto Cavalli and Zac Posen.
1. Chanel Précision Eye Definer in Khaki Platine ($27) 2. Chanel Illusion d’Ombres Eyeshadow in Illusoire, Épatant and Ébloui ($37 each). 3. Chanel Nail Colour in Péridot and Graphit ($27 each).
LOOK 2: BARE EDGE
Dick Page, artistic director for Shiseido, decided on a “scruffy-sexy” look for Narciso Rodriguez, leaving skin natural and mixing purple and black to create a soft, “murky” eye. Lips were done in a barelythere pink. Edgy minimalism at its best. Touches of soft androgyny were also seen at Dolce & Gabbana and Vera Wang.
1. Shiseido Shimmering Cream Eye Color in Purple Dawn and Caviar ($29 each). 2. Shiseido Perfect Refining Foundation in Natural Deep Ochre ($42). 3. Shiseido Shimmering Rouge in Alabaster ($30). 4. Shiseido Benefiance Full Correction Lip Treatment ($38).
LOOK 3: DECADENT GLAM
Who says you have to choose between playing up your eyes or your lips? Not makeup maestro Pat McGrath, global creative design director for CoverGirl. She went all-out, full-tilt feminine with “fierce and sexy” lashes and glossy red lips for Gucci. Lips and eyes also took centre stage at Ralph Lauren, Emanuel Ungaro, Lanvin and Chloé. “The Gucci girl is strong, sophisticated and loves fashion,” says McGrath. Sign us up.
1. CoverGirl LipPerfection Liner in Sophisticated ($11). 2. CoverGirl Eye Enhancer 1-Kit Eye Shadow in Tapestry Taupe ($5). 3. CoverGirl LipPerfection Lipstick in Euphoria, Hot and Enamor ($11 each). 4. CoverGirl NatureLuxe Mousse Mascara in Very Black ($11).
LOOK 4: HEAVY METAL
A structured chrome cat’s eye and nude skin brought a sophisticated, modern look to the Derek Lam show. “Metallics take your makeup to a more exciting, unusual place,” says Tom Pecheux, creative makeup director for Estée Lauder. Sleek cityscape hues also popped up at Dries Van Noten, Rodarte and Peter Som.
1. Estée Lauder Pure Color EyeShadow Duo in Black Chrome and Platinums ($34 each). 2. Estée Lauder Lucidity Translucent Loose Powder ($36). 3. Estée Lauder Double Wear Light Stay-in-Place Makeup SPF 10 ($42). 4. Estée Lauder Pure Color Velvet Lipstick in Nude Velvet ($32).