Travel guide: Aloha time

Falling for Hawaii’s captivating mixture of the kitschy and the exquisite.

By: Mary Dickie

(1 person)

Pagination

The traditional spirit of “aloha”— a word that means “hello,” “goodbye” and “love,” as well as a sort of universal benevolence—is still alive in Hawaii, despite the incursions of the modern world. Hawaii is a special place—not just because of its beauty and isolation but also because of the friendly inclusiveness of its crazy melting-pot culture, which has been influenced by waves of visitors ever since Captain Cook stumbled upon it in 1778. Like the music, clothing, hula dancing and surf culture, the food has absorbed elements from Polynesia, Asia, Europe and mainland America to create a unique mix of the kitschy and the exquisite. On Hawaiian menus, super-fresh creations like ahi poke (spicy raw-tuna salad) and exotic fruits share space with fried Spam sushi and the infamous plate lunch: rice, macaroni salad and an entree that could be anything from teriyaki salmon to loco moco (a hamburger topped with a fried egg and gravy—no wonder the muumuu was invented here!). And you won’t be allowed to leave Hawaii without trying “shave ice” (a snow-cone-like concoction flavoured with fluorescent fruit syrups or azuki beans).

OAHU
Start your visit in Honolulu, where you’ll be intoxicated by the fragrant air the moment you step off the plane. The city is wedged between rainsoaked mountains and dry shoreline, which means rainbows every day.

Where to shop
The neighbourhood of Waikiki is not only kitsch central but also, strangely, a mecca for designer shopping. The streets behind the famous beach are lined with Cartier, Fendi and Hermès boutiques, as well as surf shacks, mai tai bars, craft shops selling handmade quilts and ukuleles and the ubiquitous ABC Stores, which sell everything from vibrant aloha shirts and glossy Kukuinut leis to Kona coffee and Obama bobblehead dolls, in honour of the state’s most famous son. Occupying the middle ground is Blue Ginger (blueginger.com), which features locally designed sundresses and sarongs in soft pastel colours.

Where to stay
The lavish Hilton Hawaiian Village complex (hiltonhawaiianvillage.com), which contains 14 restaurants and 90 shops on nine hectares of Waikiki beachfront, is a choice destination in itself. There are six pools, as well as gardens with hibiscus, exotic birds and even penguins.

What to do
Take surfing lessons at the beach where legendary athlete Duke Kahanamoku caught his first waves, or embark on the Atlantis Submarine Adventure (atlantissubmarines.com), which travels 30 metres below the ocean’s surface to watch giant turtles, reef sharks and brightly coloured fish darting around artificial reefs.