Forget the tourist traps! Travel like a fashionable local in six of our coolest cities.
Halifax
The buzz With its denizens of young creative types (courtesy of its five universities), Halifax has always had a singular artistic energy. Now, the electricity is collecting in the north end: Artists and designers have migrated to Gottingen and Agricola streets, setting up galleries, shops and cafés that represent an avant-garde, sophisticated side of the East Coast.
Stay Oscar Wilde stayed at the Waverley Inn, which shares a sensibility (eccentric, lovable) with the Irish writer. Beyond the yellow exterior, the ambience is pure Canadian
Gothic: oil portraits, raspberry-hued wallpaper and four-poster beds.
Shop and stroll Start at the Hydrostone Market (at Young and Gottingen), which bills itself as “Halifax’s European shopping experience.” Browse the jewellery at Lady Luck, then stop in at Julien’s bakery for its famous almond croissant (dipped in rum syrup and topped with almond cream). Nearby, Fred Salon is a triple threat: a gallery, café and salon. Admire the Bruce MacNeil photographs (which have a Nan Goldin spirit) and sip a latte while waiting for your manicure.
Dine and drink For a truly special dining experience, book a table by the ocean at Bish. Try the Lobster and Sweet Potato Chowder, then go for broke with the Filet Mignon with Half Roasted Lobster and Truffle Mashed Potatoes. Saege Bistro, near the Botanical Gardens, offers the city’s top treat. Don’t even ask for a dessert menu; just order the Chili Chocolate Pot de Crème, made with 70 percent chocolate ganache and served with orange shortbread.
FASHION ADDICT
Featuring cool-girl labels like Comrags and Ça va de soi, Heroine is Halifax’s It spot for Canadian style. Owner Jody Manley moved to the north end in 2007 and has since taken a guerrilla approach to retailing. “I did a series of showrooms, profiling the collection of one designer,” she explains. Manley also hosts trunk shows so that customers can meet the designers: “My clients love them. Each season feels like a new art show”.
Text by Laura deCarufel
Image of Fred Salon, a meeting place for artists and designers, courtesy of Fred Salon
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