Celtic tradition, the sea and a fun-loving spirit define the singular East Coast style of St. John's.
Where The most easterly city in North America, St. John's, Newfoundland, is closer to Ireland than parts of Ontario-contributing to the city's rich Celtic history and customs.
Your guide St. John's singer-songwriter Colleen Power, 28, has been charming East Coast audiences for more than a decade. Her witty blend of folk-rock is showcased on her latest album, Face and Eyes. "I live on Gower Street, right in the heart of downtown St. John's. From my house, I can see the boats in the harbour; lots of people stop at my door to take pictures of the view."
The vibe "Rows of brightly coloured homes line the hills, making for a cheery feel, even when the fog settles in," says Power. "It's easygoing, but there's always something happening. The arts and the music scene are huge in St. John's." The local film industry has also boomed in recent years. The Shipping News (with Kevin Spacey) and Rare Birds (with William Hurt) -- as well as the CBC TV hit series Hatching, Matching & Dispatching (with St. John's native Mary Walsh) -- were shot in and around town.
Big picture "You're talking about the oldest city in North America," says Power. "Because there's so much history, there's a lot to see." Top tourist stops include the Cape Spear lighthouse and Cabot Tower on Signal Hill-- a great place to catch a bird's-eye view of the city. In the evenings, explore the town with the Haunted Hike, a fun tour of old St. John's hauntings and public hangings. "Well worth the five dollars," adds Power. A trip to the city wouldn't be complete without a boat tour seeking out icebergs, whales and puffins. (Sightings are best in July and August.)
What to bring "A good sense of humour and a willingness to taste things like cod tongues, moose pie and toutons (deep-fried dough eaten with molasses)," says Power. "Also pack a camera and some sturdy footwear for climbing the hills of downtown."
Local style The city's few boutiques haven't stopped local fashionistas from keeping stylish. While the number of shops is limited, what little St. John's does have is well worth saving up for. "Water and Duckworth Streets are where to go for designer stores," says Power. On Water, August & Lotta Stockholm and Twisted Sisters Boutik have big names such as JLO, Filippa K and Misura as well as clothes from local designers like Charlotte Reid and handbags from Scraps. (The mother and daughter team behind this label make their purses by hand, using recycled clothing fabric.) Skater chicks can get their Roxy gear at Ballistic Skate & Snow, and for hippie chic, hats and pretty baubles, check out Posie Row on Duckworth. Just down the street, pick up a Newfoundland Liberation Army T-shirt at Living Planet, which sells tees of local bands (including Power) and by local artists. The oldest street in North America, Water is also where you'll find hard-to-resist decor shops like Home on Water, Urban Home and Attica. Stop by Fred's on Duckworth for traditional Newfoundland and Irish music and the Downhomer bookstore on Water to check out works by award-winning Newfoundland authors such as Michael Crummey. "If you want to get a feel for our dialect, read Down to the Dirt by Joel Hynes," recommends Power. "You'll get the hang of it in no time -- and it's a great story."
Photo courtesy of Brian Atkinson/Alamy
Where to eat Auntie Crae's is the perfect place to breakfast on fresh pastries and gourmet coffee. For lunch, make the trip out to Lighthouse Picnics in nearby Ferryland, where adorable thirtysomethings Jill Curran and Sonia O'Keefe serve up a fresh, tasty menu of curried chicken and mango salad followed by peach shortcake. (While you're in the neighbourhood, check out the archaeological ruins of the Colony of Avalon and learn about the first settlers here.) For fine dining, reserve a table at Bianca's. "It's the chicest place to eat at in St. John's," says Power. "Visiting celebrities like Kevin Spacey and Judi Dench have been spotted here." Try the delectable caribou filet in a red wine and port reduction with sun-dried sour cherry sauce -- you'll never crave filet mignon again. Although Blue on Water doubles as a boutique hotel, don't miss out on its sexy cocktail bar and the fresh seafood in its upscale restaurant -- splurge on the lobster! After a late night, catch a bite at such 24-7 dives as Celtic Hearth on Water Street and Oscar's on Duckworth Street. You'll think the party is only getting started.
Where to drink Catch Happy Hour at the Grapevine, a popular downtown wine bar, across the street from Bianca's on Water Street. "Kiefer Sutherland was spotted making out with most of the clientele during the filming of Behind the Red Door," says Power. Lively George Street in downtown St. John's has the highest concentration of bars in North America. "Check it out at 3 a.m. after a Friday or Saturday night of partying! This craziness inspired the series George Street TV , which debuts on the Comedy Network this fall." If you're a first-time visitor to Newfoundland, get screeched-in with dark rum at O'Reilly's and catch some live music at The Ship on Duckworth. "It's the first bar I ever played in," says Power. "The Tragically Hip, Ron Sexsmith and Sarah Harmer have all performed here." If you want to shake your bootie, head to the Sundance, three floors of university-style madness on George Street.
Where to stay Although the Fairmont is popular with celebrities and royalty alike -- Queen Elizabeth, Lady Di and Prince Charles have all stayed here -- it's the B & Bs that offer true St. John's charm. "Fancy bed and breakfasts are becoming extremely popular in St. John's," adds Power. And Everton House is the Ferrari of B & Bs. The gorgeous 19th-century manse boasts luxurious rooms and a Martha Stewart-worthy kitchen -- home, only better. You can also stay at the Spa at the Monastery and Suites if you want a head start on your day of pampering.
Getaway Even though it's on the other side of the island, Gros Morne National Park is well worth the detour. This breathtaking UNESCO-recognized site boasts great mountain views and fabulous hiking and skiing. Take the boat tour through the winding Western Brook Pond, where towering rock faces jut out from serene waters, creating picturesque landlocked fjords. Follow that with lunch at The Old Loft Restaurant in Woody Point, with its view of the Tableland Mountains. Later, dine at the ultra-majestic Strawberry Hill, overlooking the Humber River. If you can, splurge on a chalet at the new Humber Valley Resort. (They'll be adding a spa in the spring.) After a game of golf on their world-class greens, soak up the stars in your own private outdoor hot tub while listening to the sounds of the wild.
In the limelight
Newfoundland and Labrador Tourism www.destinationstjohns.com
Maxxim Vacations www.maxximvacations.com
Colleen Power
http://www.colleenpower.com
Lighthouse Picnics
www.lighthousepicnics.com
Humber Valley Resort www.humbervalley.com
The St. John's Haunted Hike www.hauntedhike.com
The Old Loft Restaurant
www.theoldloft.com
Strawberry Hill www.strawberryhill.net
Spa at the Monastery and Suites www.monastery-spa.com
Everton House www.evertonhouse.com
Photo courtesy of Brian Atkinson/Alamy

