Something chic, something shocking, something arty, something pop: Marc Jacobs breathes youthful wit into the luxury market.
His personal life also wasn’t without its drama. Jacobs spent most of his youth at his grandmother’s place on the Upper West Side. His father, an actors’ agent for William Morris, died when Jacobs was seven. His mother, who was a receptionist, wasn’t particularly interested in being a mother. He eventually cut ties with his mom, as well as his brother and sister. His real family is made up of Sofia Coppola, Elizabeth Peyton, Naomi Campbell and his business partner, Robert Duffy. Jacobs also has another family: two bull terriers named Daisy and Alfred. At present, he is happily engaged to Lorenzo Martone, a Brazilian advertising executive who is as tanned and fit as his partner.
Before we head to a brainstorming session for the fall/winter 2009 collection with his staff, Jacobs changes his kilt (now a Scottish plaid) and his shoes (a fluorescent Stephen Sprouse pair from the LV collection). “I know, I look like something from outer space!” he says, laughing. Jacobs’ management and creative style are inclusive: He doesn’t enter the studio and shout “This winter, it’s red or it’s nothing!” He says he genuinely likes the back and forth of the creative process, adding that “nobody succeeds alone.” His team — many of whom joined LV when he did — are experienced and extremely loyal. “If I decide to leave one day, I’ll change careers altogether because working with Marc is an opportunity — he is very endearing,” explains Maureen, his assistant for nine years. Isabelle Capece, public relations director at LV, is equally enamoured. “You love him right away!” she says.
During the meeting, Jacobs pores over images clipped from magazines. He lingers over new fabrics and carefully examines vintage pieces. Across the room, he spots a Pierre Cardin jacket on a stand and says that it reminds him of a coat worn by Emma Thompson. “The volume is very Vuitton!” Another staff member hands him a sample of printed twill. Jacob shapes and drapes it and then rolls it into a ball. “Marc is very involved — it’s really stimulating,” says Emilie Jacquet, who runs the leather studio. “He thinks that we can always break new ground!” When a stylist shows him a cocoon cape, he says that it has potential but questions whether it’s modern. “Work on it, but I have reservations. Anyway, we’ll see...” His voice trails off, and he draws the meeting to a close. It’s 6 p.m. and it’s time to hit the gym. “I love the effervescent feeling at the beginning of a collection,” he says as he heads for the door.
Fast-forward to New York Fashion Week. Jacobs’ show starts two minutes early — a far cry from the days when he kept people waiting for up to two hours — and it’s a bright, bold and playful counterpoint to the grim economic mood. After the show, Jacobs jet-sets back to Paris to finish his LV collection. There are plenty of last-minute changes, but his team understands. “Everyone plays along because we know that he’s always right,” says Jacquet. Understanding the link between business and creativity is one of Jacobs’ unique strengths, adds Arnault. “Marc sums up the paradox of many creative people,” he says. “He feels things deeply and comes across as very intuitive, but at the same time he knows exactly what is right for Louis Vuitton.”
Learn how Marc finishes his Louis Vuitton collection on the next page ...
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