Silvia Venturini Fendi, the third-generation matriarch of the Fendi family and granddaughter of the famed Italian fashion house’s founders, Adele and Edoardo Fendi, knows how to make a mark. Currently the artistic director of menswear and accessories, she became the house’s second-in-command alongside Karl Lagerfeld in 1992 and shortly after was promoted to head of menswear and accessories. In 1997, she debuted one of the brand’s greatest hits, the Fendi Baguette, and followed that in 2008 with what is now an iconic It bag: the Peekaboo. “There was an invasion of bags on the catwalk at the time, so I really wanted to create one that only a real leather-goods [expert] like Fendi could possibly make,” says Venturini Fendi of the Peekaboo. “It was the moment to set things straight with a new classic but in a very Fendi way.”

With its drapey open silhouette and endless size and colour options, this timeless piece has been adopted by fashion lovers and celebrities alike, becoming one of the most recognized bags ever. “I’m always open to taking risks and experimenting with new ideas,” says Venturini Fendi. “I wasn’t sure what to expect when it debuted, but after more than 15 years, it’s nice to see that a good idea is forever.” We recently spoke with Venturini Fendi about the new Peekaboo bags, their lasting power and how they complement the brand’s fall/winter 2023/2024 collection.

SINCE THE PEEKABOO’S INCEPTION, HOW MANY ITERATIONS HAVE YOU DONE?

“It’s hard to keep track. Although the Peekaboo has very precise codes, we’ve evolved its design season after season, rolling out new styles that play with scale and wearability as well as [new] textures, colours and craft.”

WHY DO YOU THINK IT HAS STOOD THE TEST OF TIME?

“The idea of the Peekaboo came really fast, but it was an idea of value because I am still not fed up with it. It was a desire to go back to tradition—to a subtle and private luxury. It’s a bag I like to consider timeless and that will be part of our history forever.”

YOU’VE MENTIONED BEFORE THAT THE PEEKABOO IS LIKE AN HEIRLOOM AND SHOULD BE KEPT AND PASSED ON.

“Yes. You buy a Peekaboo thinking not only that you will wear it now but also that you will wear it in the future and that one of your daughters will probably steal it from your closet. It’s one of those objects that you want to belong to your family for all time.”

Silvia Venturini Courtesy of Fendi

Silvia Venturini Courtesy of Fendi

WHAT HAVE YOU DONE WITH THIS LATEST VERSION OF THE BAG?

“For fall/winter 2023/2024, our signature interlace versions are truly exceptional in craftsmanship. The [design] is reimagined with strips of shearling; the artisans cut shearling into [the required] shape and then meticulously hand-weave it into the drilled leather panels, forming a beautiful effect between a pattern and embroidery.”

HOW DOES THIS NEW PEEKABOO COMPLEMENT FENDI’S LATEST WOMEN’S COLLECTION?

“The latest collection explores elegance through the lens of subtle subversion, which is exactly what these new shearling Peekaboo bags embody. Lace, leather with cut-outs, sequins and wool [create a] luxurious feel in ready- to-wear, and I wanted to do something similar [by offering] accessories that might seem unexpected but always sophisticated, including these shearling Peekaboo bags, which offer a subtle twist on a classic.”

WHEN YOU’RE DESIGNING A NEW COLLECTION, DO YOU COLLABORATE WITH KIM JONES ON THE LOOK AND FEEL OF IT SO THAT THE ACCESSORIES AND CLOTHING ARE COMPLEMENTARY?

“Kim and I are engaged in a constant dialogue. Our way of working is very easy and organic: He has very clear ideas of what he wants to do, and I like to show him the Fendi way of doing things.”

HOW DO YOU FEEL WHEN YOU SEE A WOMAN ON THE STREET WITH A PEEKABOO?

“Proud. I think a Peekaboo [sug- gests] a very strong, powerful and empowered person who is not afraid to hide.”

THE FENDI BRAND SEEMS TO BE SYNONYMOUS WITH FAMILY. DO YOU FEEL LIKE THIS SENSE OF FAMILY IS REFLECTED IN YOUR WORK?

“Even though Fendi is no longer exclusively in the hands of family members, the family vibe is still very much at the core of everything we do. We’re a kind of ‘chosen family.’ It’s a bond that makes us stronger.”

More from Trends