Goodbye, boho babes; bonjour, femmes fatales! We're loving the new strong shape in fall fashion. Tough luxe feels right for these interesting times.
Neo-patchwork (above: Dries Van Noten, Proenza Schouler, Marc Jacobs)
• Designers played mix masters in artful collages of pattern, texture and colour.
• Bold, geometric abstraction meets patchwork styling.
• Matte and shiny fabric combinations created depth at Calvin Klein.
• Trompe l’oeil effects in opposing colours tricked at Dolce & Gabbana.
• Clashing prints duelled it out at Dries Van Noten.
• Felt wools and sporty jerseys played contrasting fabric textures at Proenza Schouler.
• Good taste flirts with bad for controlled chic.
Coat (above: Lanvin, DKNY, Burberry Prorsum)
• The must in a season full of options! Today’s emphasis is on classics.
• Low-key, belted, slouchy bathrobe versions at MaxMara.
• Day-to-day glamour in simple silhouettes.
• Often double-breasted.
• Basic colours: camel, grey and black.
• Belted cashmere trenches with full collars at Michael Kors.
• Draped and wrapped at Lanvin.
• Forties empowered sleeve styles or ’80s giant lapels.
• Enveloping cocoon cuts in double-faced wools, alpaca and camel hair.
• Investment dressing strikes a quiet balance of sobriety and luxe.
Text by Anthony Mitropoulos; produced by Denis Desro
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Haider Ackermann; Fall/Winter 2009 slide show
Lanvin; Fall/Winter 2009 slide show
