Goodbye, boho babes; bonjour, femmes fatales! We're loving the new strong shape in fall fashion. Tough luxe feels right for these interesting times.
Retro glam (above: Prada, Dries Van Noten, Lanvin)
• The golden age of Hollywood plays dial-a-decade.
• John Galliano at Christian Dior revisited ’20s Orientalism and the flapper.
• Shimmer and shine from day to night.
• Thirties surrealist glamour tricks with trompe l’oeil à la Cocteau, Dali and Man Ray.
• Elsa Schiaparelli inspired Dolce & Gabbana.•Gloves used as headpieces and scarves.
• Forties austere elegance.
• Ballooning shoulder play. Joan Crawford.
• Dark and sober hues.
• Tailored jackets and coat dresses at Prada.
• Draped shift dresses topped with fur wraps at Lanvin.
• Silk, satin and brocade bring elegant ’50s opulence to a cinematic level of beauty.
The Eighties (above: Louis Vuitton, BCBG Max Azria, Stella McCartney)
• A decade of lavish excess, money and power.
• Black tights and metallic leggings.
• Studio 54 and Le Palace.
• The return of the power suit.
• Exaggerated shoulders and nipped-in waists.
• Montana and Mugler triangular silhouettes.
• Jersey tunics and body-con micro-dressing at Louis Vuitton.
• Hip-grazing fetish legging boots at Stella McCartney.
• Lots of black and shades of grey.
• Day-Glo neons pop.
• Punk brings back Anglomania.
• Sequins, leather and fur add over-the-top drama to red-lacquered lips.
Text by Anthony Mitropoulos; produced by Denis Desro
Velvet and the power suit on the next page ...
