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Fashion news: Haute couture's iconic presence

Our most noteworthy haute couture designers - think Chanel and Givenchy - are breathing life back into this 'dying art'.

By
Clara Young
Photography
Marcio Madeira
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COUTURE-10-EC1011.jpgText by Alannah O'Neill

THE ONE TO WATCH


GIAMBATTISTA VALLI’s couture debut was one of the most anticipated shows. He presented a collection of fanciful, sculptural and feminine cocktail frocks to a posh, celebrity-packed crowd. He later said that the belts, which were often paired with delicate chiffon gowns, were meant to suggest “the arms of a man around his woman.”

THE COMEBACK KID

After an eight-year runway hiatus, AZZEDINE ALAÏA returned to the couture runway with a collection that garnered rave reviews. At the culmination of the show, the notoriously shy designer had to be literally dragged onto the runway to receive his accolades from frontrow guests, which included Donatella Versace, Kanye West and Sofia Coppola— but not Anna Wintour, who was reportedly banned from the show.

THE COLLECTOR

Toronto-based socialite SYLVIA MANTELLA’s first couture piece was a vintage Pierre Balmain corset from a Paris boutique. “It wasn’t made for me,” she says. “I’ve never worn it—but it was so exquisite, and it peaked my interest in couture.” Mantella, who frequently attends the Paris shows, has an extensive and enviable collection. Her most recent acquisition is a lavish coral Giambattista Valli gown. “The dress is outstanding. They took my measurements, and I’ll be going for my second fitting soon.” While some gasp at couture’s extravagant price tag—$10,000 and up—Mantella doesn’t flinch. “Some people collect Renoirs,” she says. “My husband collects ancient fossils. I collect couture. It’s important to support the craft.”

THE HISTORIAN

Giovanni Bedin went back to the archives to create his collection, channelling ladies fashions from the 1850s that made the HOUSE OF WORTH a name synonymous with couture. Inspired by panniers and structured cages, each look took more than 300 hours to create. A quick history lesson: Charles Frederick Worth, who is known as the “father of haute couture,” staged the first fashion shows, pioneered the idea of fashion seasons and was one of the first male designers to create fashions for women, including dresses for the masses.

Some more noteworthy haute couture designers on the next page...



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