Roberta Einer spring 2017
This designer's clothes aren't for shrinking violets.
Estonian-born, London-based designer Roberta Einer's frenetic and playful vibe is infectious. Since launching her label in 2015, Einer has become known for her bold use of couture-level embellishment and hand embroidery. It's no surprise that prior to launching her label, Einer worked with Olivier Rousteing as a print and embroidery assistant at Balmain.
We chatted to Einer about her spring collection, which is a mix of mad prints and reworked silhouettes inspired by pastel-hued South Beach circa 1980.
A look from Roberta Einer's spring 2017 collection
What's the mood and feeling of this collection?
"I drew main inspiration from Miami and South beach – 1980’s poolside poster art was translated into embellishment, highly worked fabrics featured botanicals and tropical birds. For the colours I was inspired by illustrators like Jiro Bevis and Yoko Honda who [featured] Miami a lot in their work. I wanted to recreate what all those strong Studio 54 characters like Bianca Jagger, Janice Dickinson and Debbie Harry would be wearing if they went to Miami. The pastel hues of the city’s architecture lead to using rainbow palette of greens, blues, pinks and fluorescents that were set by monochrome. It’s a very fun and sexy collection – just like Miami! – with lots of high shine and big contrasts in textures and cuts."
In terms of textures, what was the process in selecting or creating then?
"Fabric and material sourcing is one of the most important parts when designing collection. We get custom tweeds done in Linton mill, which is the same mill that develops Chanel tweeds. We get jacquards from Paris and leather from Italy. All embroidery is manufactured in one of the best hand embroidery factories, that also produces for Balmain, Ralph & Russo and Lanvin. We [experiment] in-house for the most creative techniques and finishes and then give the production to the industry’s best."
Who's the Roberta Einer customer?
"I don’t really believe that there is a certain age or image that most of our customers have, because for me it has always been about designing every kind of woman – all ages, all ethnicities, all body types and characters. I started selling from the very first season globally, so it became vital to design for all types of women.
One thing that unites all customers is that they wish to stand out and have this playful way of dressing and living. For me, it’s really important that the customer wears clothes and not the other way around. And with designs like mine, you will really need a quite a character to pull it off!"
Carli Whitwell and her husband attempt to find some common holiday ground.
I came to the realization that my husband and I are vacation incompatible when we were on our honeymoon. We were in the crumbling, romantic seaside city of Syracuse in Sicily. I was jonesing for a little loungey beach time, preferably with my new BFFs: cassata (a ricotta sponge cake) and espresso. But Tim had hunted down an archaeology museum, so instead I found myself wandering after him through its dusty corridors for hours.
So we divorced. Kidding! But to avoid future tantrums – mine, not his – we devised a plan. Going forward, we’d divide all vacations: 50 percent sightseeing, 50 percent slothing.
We tested out the approach on a recent getaway in Napa Valley and San Francisco. A road trip, I reasoned, would ensure that I could hop in the car and hightail it to the nearest beach if Tim pulled the museum sneak attack. It might not come as a surprise that Napa (wine, sunshine, spas, swimming) is my thing. There are 501 wineries in the county, and according to our tour guide, David, “There isn’t a bad glass of Cab Sauv.” Challenge accepted, sir.
The author and her husband. Image by: Ford Canada
First up: sightseeing. Our Napa time began with a visit to Elizabeth Spencer Winery. This mom-and-pop operation doesn’t grow its own grapes; rather, it sources them from local vineyards. Spencer’s was my kind of tasting: We were served in a tree-lined courtyard. For those who prefer the romance of a wine tour, I’d recommend Davis Estates. It’s the passion project of Mike Davis, a gregarious-cowboy type who made it big in the tech boom and then went into the wine biz – for fun. The tour is worth it to see his palatial manor alone; apparently some state senators had stopped by the week before. A blissful Tim took so many photos his iPhone died. Meanwhile, I powered through until I found a comfy hanging chair on the terrace overlooking the valley.
Round two: sloth mode. You won’t find any impersonal 500-room hotels in Napa; it is mostly B&Bs or small resorts. We stayed at the ultra-luxe Calistoga Ranch – think summer camp for millionaires – which has just 50 rooms. They call the rooms “lodges,” which is apt because they’re bigger than my condo and feature outdoor fireplaces, outdoor showers and hot tubs. It’s also worth noting that the resort is in a forest, so it smells like you’re inside a cedar-scented candle. We wrapped up our stay with a deep-tissue couples massage in the ranch’s Auberge Spa, after which I nearly cried because I didn’t want to leave.
The Golden Gate Bridge. Image by: Getty
Next up: city sightseeing. Knowing we were headed into his territory, Tim appeased me by letting me drive. I dawdled as much as I could, taking a leisurely, winding route into the city before hitting all the classic tourist stops – Golden Gate Bridge, Fisherman’s Wharf, AT&T Park (the stadium where Kanye proposed to Kim, so obvs a must-stop) and the OG hippie haunt, Haight-Ashbury. (FYI, Deadheads: 2017 marks the 50th anniversary of the Summer of Love, and the city is hosting exhibitions and festivals all year long.)
Today’s San Fran is not the Full House iteration you grew up with. It’s now a home base for booming neighbour Silicon Valley, and apartments here cost more than their Manhattan equivalents. The people-watching is just as good as the Big Apple’s: Over truffle fries and a glass of Cab Sauv in the St. Regis hotel, I’m pretty sure we saw at least five app-development deals go down.
San Francisco's "Painted Ladies" on "Postcard Row" Image by: Istock
As the city has evolved, so, too, has the food scene. The region now boasts 49 Michelin-starred restos. We ended our getaway with a meal at the buzzy Twenty Five Lusk, which recently got a thumbs-up from Barack Obama. “Nobody comes here once,” our guide had told us about the city. Turns out not even sedentary vacationers like me can resist it. We’re already planning our next trip.
JOY RIDE Your road trip is only as good as your wheels. Here are my three must-haves.
The 2017 Lincoln Continental Image by: Ford Canada
1. Comfy seats. We test drove the 2017 Lincoln Continental, and I can report that the leather seats were as soft as the marshmallow-like bed in my Napa lodge. They also boast back massagers.
2. A good sound system. The Lincoln’s 10 speakers ensure you can always play Rihanna at full blast, as she should be.
3. A jacked-up dashboard. Among its many tricks, it shows the speed limit of the road you’re on. This is helpful when you’re pulling a Jack Kerouac and have no idea where you are or how fast you should be going.
This article originally appeared in the February 2017 issue of ELLE Canada.
Beyoncé at the Met Gala in 2016. Image by: Getty
What we learned during a master class with Beyoncé's makeup artist.
After working closely with Beyoncé, Joan Smalls, Naomi Campbell and Karlie Kloss, you could forgive Sir John Barnett for not being humble. Except humble is exactly what he is. At a recent master class for beauty editors and industry insiders, L'Oréal Paris Celebrity Makeup Artist Sir John (yes, it's his real name) preached kindness in an industry that is sometimes perceived as being catty. “I am not in the business of makeup, I am in the business of people," he told the crowd. "It’s less of how I am with a brush and more of how I am with people. If you make them feel good, they will want to work with you again.” Here are 11 other things we learned from the makeup maestro.
1. Beyoncé wasn't mad that her 2016 Met Gala look wasn’t well received. "Fans wanted to kill me. [Laughs] I remember one comment, 'Who did this to her!?’ We wanted to do a bit of a graphic liner. She was happy though, I saw her the next day and I thought she was going to be so upset but she was like, 'Babe, I felt good, I liked it.' And I liked it too, so that was it!”
2. Beyoncé's favourite beauty look is all about the lip. “She loves a statement lip. She's a girl who loves lips and minimal eyes. If you see she is wearing a crazy eye look, it is probably because I convinced her to do it. One time I talked her into doing a glossy lid for one of her music videos and she loved it so much that now she tries to do it on her own.”
3. Use a light hand when applying foundation. “[My makeup pet peeve is] when girls wear too much foundation."
4. The makeup trend that he thinks is over: “Highlighting the tip of the nose.”
5. Reconsider your use of powder. "I never bake [makeup]. Never. The skin needs to be as natural as possible. Plus, imperfections give you swag. If you have oily skin use a mattifying moisturizer or foundation, don’t set with powder.”
6. Sir John looks for a "sense of urgency" in his assistants. "If I ask for something, I don’t want to see [them] walking over to get it. If I am feeling stressed out, I want to look over and see that [they] might be a little stressed out too.”
7. His favourite look is dewy skin. "It is the sexiest thing a woman can do.”
8. What he learned from working with makeup artist Charlotte Tilbury. “Be yourself, be unique.”
9. Joan Smalls is secretly amazing at makeup. "Joan Smalls is so good at makeup; she does amazing makeup on herself.” [Ed note: She also knows how to work her hair. I've seen her tweaking it backstage at fashion week.]
10. Take YouTube tutorials with a grain of salt. “While YouTube is great, we want to make sure it is not the blind leading the blind. Make sure you are seeking tips and advice from people who are out in the field and actually know what they are doing.”
11. He would love to work with Priyanka Chopra. "I saw her at the Globes and I was a little starstruck. I had to work up the courage to go and say hello. Also Olivia Wilde, she is beautiful.”
With files from Maryjane Peters.
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