All runway images courtesy of ImaxTree.com.
It has become my tradition to start off Paris Fashion Week by attending
Nicolas Andreas Taralis
’ show. The Toronto-born designer chose a parking garage in Le Marais as the setting for his Japan-meets-sci-fi outing. The looks reflected his signature hand-tailored layered finesse, but the zipper detailing on pants and jackets introduced an unexpected sporty twist. The aluminum-foil coat—the only metallic pop in the mainly black-and-white parade—was the most obvious space-age reference. My favourite piece was the men’s jacket below: monkish aesthetic + sensual fluidity gets me every time.
Backstage at Gareth Pugh.
The Gregorian-chant soundtrack at
put me in the mood for the heavily incensed scene at Pugh’s show, which was held at the Palais de Tokyo. (Note to self: Bring inhaler next time!) Backstage, M.A.C makeup artist Alex Box created mournful-looking reddened eyes to reflect Pugh’s tortured and heartbroken muse. It was Box’s first show since giving birth to her baby boy nine weeks ago, and it—like her makeup—was an emotional experience. “I’ve been crying for months!” she said. “Here I am doing what I love, and then I can look over and see the one I love.” Her little fella was backstage, but he was blissfully unaware of the madness around him. “I want whatever he’s on,” I told Box. “Sorry, but I’m not going to breastfeed you!” she laughed.
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On the runway… Pugh’s mood was starkly romantic, medieval and regal. The lines were long and languid with Latin-inspired feminine flourishes, including fluted sleeves, ruffles and bell-bottomed pants. The colour story was ivory, pale grey and black with stunning—and arresting—pops of brilliant red. (See Alana Zimmer above.) A single tear—Hollywood style—made its way down the model’s cheek. I had one too—several, actually—but that was because there was a leak in the roof just over my head.
Even the weather gods were moved to tears by Pugh’s poetic collection. (An a cappella Spanish version of “Crying” by Rebekah del Rio was the acoustic complement to this lacrimal-themed show. At first I thought she was saying “Yolanda, Yolanda,” which I found rather puzzling—until the peso dropped and I realized it was the present participle of llorar (to cry). “Llorando! Llorando!” All those years of Spanish lessons occasionally pay off.
Nail-art alert: The mood may have been nude in NYC, but M.A.C artist Marian Newman created “tear-themed” nails by blending two shades of red (Cream Rogue Marie and Cream Shirelle). “The colours blend and fade into each other—but the trick is to use two top coats to get that super-shiny look.”
Last stop: Mugler
At the Mugler #pfw show. Must. Resist. Urge. To. Lie. Down. #wickedjetleg says it all. But then the show started and Fashion Week adrenalin kicked in for this club-inspired outing by Nicola Formichetti. The creative director of the house, who is often best known for being Lady Gaga’s stylist, established his own voice last night with this '80s-club-inspired sexy collection. Gaga was in the house—at least on the soundtrack. Her new, unreleased song “Cake” provided the requisite pop edge to get the fashion scenesters—a.k.a. Anna Dello Russo—pumped.
Paris Fashion Week by numbers:
hour of sleep
naps (one in a cab and the other on the subway)
glass of Sancerre (okay, maybe 2)
embassy sightings (Colombia and Burkina Faso)
rude cab driver
stylish air kisses between fashion besties.