Roberta Einer spring 2017
This designer's clothes aren't for shrinking violets.
Estonian-born, London-based designer Roberta Einer's frenetic and playful vibe is infectious. Since launching her label in 2015, Einer has become known for her bold use of couture-level embellishment and hand embroidery. It's no surprise that prior to launching her label, Einer worked with Olivier Rousteing as a print and embroidery assistant at Balmain.
We chatted to Einer about her spring collection, which is a mix of mad prints and reworked silhouettes inspired by pastel-hued South Beach circa 1980.
A look from Roberta Einer's spring 2017 collection
What's the mood and feeling of this collection?
"I drew main inspiration from Miami and South beach – 1980’s poolside poster art was translated into embellishment, highly worked fabrics featured botanicals and tropical birds. For the colours I was inspired by illustrators like Jiro Bevis and Yoko Honda who [featured] Miami a lot in their work. I wanted to recreate what all those strong Studio 54 characters like Bianca Jagger, Janice Dickinson and Debbie Harry would be wearing if they went to Miami. The pastel hues of the city’s architecture lead to using rainbow palette of greens, blues, pinks and fluorescents that were set by monochrome. It’s a very fun and sexy collection – just like Miami! – with lots of high shine and big contrasts in textures and cuts."
In terms of textures, what was the process in selecting or creating then?
"Fabric and material sourcing is one of the most important parts when designing collection. We get custom tweeds done in Linton mill, which is the same mill that develops Chanel tweeds. We get jacquards from Paris and leather from Italy. All embroidery is manufactured in one of the best hand embroidery factories, that also produces for Balmain, Ralph & Russo and Lanvin. We [experiment] in-house for the most creative techniques and finishes and then give the production to the industry’s best."
Who's the Roberta Einer customer?
"I don’t really believe that there is a certain age or image that most of our customers have, because for me it has always been about designing every kind of woman – all ages, all ethnicities, all body types and characters. I started selling from the very first season globally, so it became vital to design for all types of women.
One thing that unites all customers is that they wish to stand out and have this playful way of dressing and living. For me, it’s really important that the customer wears clothes and not the other way around. And with designs like mine, you will really need a quite a character to pull it off!"
Plus Skai Jackson's glowing complexion, Lily Collins' glitter lids and 7 other beauty looks we loved on Instagram this week.
Miaou's "Brigitte" jeans.
Prepare to gain a new appreciation for grommets.
The story of Alexia Elkaim's new denim label Miaou (pronounced "meow," in case you were wondering) is a bit like the plot of the Sisterhood of the Traveling Pants. "I wanted to make a pair of jeans that fit all of my friends," says Elkaim, who was inspired by a pair of jeans she picked up a flea market in Paris. "I thought 'let me see what I can do with this pattern.'"
Elkaim, who previously worked as a music editor at CR Fashion Book and then as a casting agent, is quick to admit that she's not a "denim girl," explaining that her jeans are meant for someone who prefers to wear dresses. "My jeans are novelty pieces, maybe you could wear them everyday, but you don't see jeans like this everyday."
Elkaim photographed her friends for the lookbook, and struck gold when her first design, the Brigitte – a high-rise, tight fitting jeans with rope and grommet embellishments – were spotted on Bella Hadid. "Celebrity seeding is everything," says Elkaim, whose Instagram DMs blew up after photos of Bella in the jeans appeared on The Daily Mail in November of last year. "She's the only celebrity I sent my jeans to, and they look great on her. I'm glad it was successful."
And what about the jeans' most prominent feature, those strategically placed grommets? Elkaim's answer is simple: "I think grommets are sexy and cool." The other standout feature of Miaou jeans is the lack of a waistband. According to Elkaim, this allows the denim to hug the body without pinching.
Elkaim is slowly working her way up to a full collection. For now, she's released the Tommy, a jean with a looser fit through the leg as well as a pinstripe pant that's very Wall Street-meets-Clueless. Each pair features those now-signature grommets, through which you can thread a glittery chain or a colourful satin tie.
When asked to give advice to anyone dreaming of starting their own line, Elkaim emphasizes focusing on one product: "Make it the best product you can, so when people look at it they will associate you with your product – that's when you know you have a brand. A brand is known for something, always."
Angelina Jolie is the face of Guerlain's latest fragrance. Image by: Getty
Here's what we know so far.
Angelina Jolie has a new gig as the face of Guerlain's upcoming fragrance. The name of the perfume and details about the notes have not yet been released. Here's what we do know: According to the press release, the partnership was decided back in December 2015 while Jolie was directing a movie in Cambodia. Her first exposure to the brand was through her mother, who loved their powder. Perfumer Thierry Wasser was inspired by the actress/director to create a scent that expressed "the notes of a woman." Jolie donated the money she made from the campaign, which will launch in March, to charity.
We will update this post as we learn more.