The look–and the tools to create the look—backstage at Victoria Beckham.I have further evidence that a “less-is-more” beauty mood is emerging as a key trend at New York Fashion Week. It’s been driven by another sub-trend that I’m calling the "anti-cloning clause" (more on that in a later blog). First, let’s just savour the calming clarion call to simplicity from hair maestro Guido Palau. “ Natural hair is very much a trend of the moment,” he declared backstage at Victoria Beckham. “Silky-smooth blow-dried hair isn’t fashionable. Designers don’t respond to it. It doesn’t feel relevant to fashion at the moment. Hairdressers have to create a new vision for what it means to have rich hair. It’s a whole new way of thinking about hair.” Just because "natural" hair might look effortless, the kind of style Palau is talking about still requires some work—and some products and equipment. “Every woman needs a fantastic hair dryer,” he said. “I love the Babyliss because it’s like the Ferrari of blow-dryers. Women always ask me why a blow-dryer is important, but it is. You want one that dries quickly so the hair's not under the heat for too long.” You’ll also need some products to create the textures that give the hair its lived-in, carefree appeal. For Beckham’s show, Palau used two products: Redken Shine Flash 02 and Redken Diamond Oil, which will be released this spring. The Beckham pony, unlike the one Palau created for Alexander Wang, is decidedly undone. “It’s not a clean one,” he said. “I pulled it together with my hands so it almost feels like an accident. A little ear will be showing, and there are wisps around the face. It’s those subtle nuances that create the overall impression of ease.” So what makes this look relevant? “Clothes today are so designed in general—they don’t need an elaborate hairstyle to accent that execution. Instead, with the right hair, you bring a breath of fresh air to the look; there's nothing stifled or stiff about it. Fantastical hair—that takes a lot of work—doesn’t feel right anymore. If it feels laboured, it’s wrong. The goal is to have style and ease.” What's the best makeup to accompany this new "rich" natural hair? Read on.... M.A.C makeup artist Diane Kendal brought the same clean, clear vision to her look for the collection, choosing to quietly play up the girls’ features using light-coverage foundation, some coffee-walnut sculpting cream in the crease of the eyes and a thin black line close to the lashes. The eyebrows were slightly filled in and brushed, and the lips were muted or, in her words, “taken down” with foundation. “It’s a simple, fresh look,” she explained, adding that the impact comes from the "subtle–or nuanced—contouring.” M.A.C nail artist Marian Newman also got the go-minimal memo. She called her understated, clean look the "power manicure." The nails were glossed with white pencil under the edges. "The look was clean, healthy—done, but not trying too hard."
Wispy bangs and a loose pony complement this formal black suit. All photos by ImaxTree.com.
A simple grey dress with regal sleeves looks chic with an equally modest pony.
This velvet top with matching pencil skirt is paired with a casual, natural updo.READ MORE NYFW fall/winter 2013/2014: Backstage at Alexander Wang NYFW fall/winter 2013/2014: Backstage beauty at Altuzarra NYFW fall/winter 2013/2014: At Rebecca Minkoff, nearly at Jason Wu, comfort food at ABC Kitchen NYFW fall/winter 2013/2014: Street-style pics from Day 3: Haute grunge, Russian doll flare, & biker chic NYFW fall/winter 2013/2014: Street-style pics from Day 2: Ladylike chic & animal print NYFW fall/winter 2013/2014: Street-style pics from Day 1: Uptown style & downtown cool