Fashion

Backstage beauty at NYFW fall/winter 2013/2014: Altuzarra's woman is street smart and fiercely chic

Elle Canada
Fashion

Backstage beauty at NYFW fall/winter 2013/2014: Altuzarra's woman is street smart and fiercely chic

 

Backstage beauty at Altuzarra. "She's kinda of spooky looking, which is why I love it!" explains makeup artist Tom Pecheux.

Whether it’s Jason Wu’s “extreme femininity” or Altuzarra’s “fiercely feminine silhouette” the style maven’s fashion and beauty mandate for Fall 2013 is clearly to “take no prisoners!” But that doesn’t mean she’s overly aggressive, explains makeup artist Tom Pecheux, backstage at Altuzarra. “The look is strong—in fact it’s quite spooky, but it’s not aggressive or mean.” He created his spooky muse using a M.A.C creamy charcoal, metallic shadow on the upper eyelid and a raspberry/pink shade under the eye blending it from the outside to the middle and down. “You don’t know if she’s completely mad, or she’s coming back from a great evening out. It’s Belle de Jour with a touch of [Helmut] Newton.”

Tom Pecheux backstage at Altuzarra.

What's the story behind that hair? Click here to see what unexpected glitch the hair team had to contend with... Paul Hanlon was tasked with creating the hair to accompany Altuzarra's sophisticated street-chic look.  But before he could get started, he first had to wash the gel out of the hair of the girls who came from the Alexander Wang show.  “It was a disaster,” he explained. “I’m sure I’ve done things that other stylists have had to undo. You can’t blame people. The problem was there’s only one bathroom and we’ve had to wash their hair over dustbins.”

Paul Hanlon (in the hat) backstage at Altuzarra creating his perfectly, imperfect look.

Once their hair was clean, Hanlon’s next task was to “age it.” “The hair is kind of dirty—and I don’t mean they need a wash—it’s just about creating hair that looks a few days old. It’s a little bit languid, very separated and sexy. It’s not grunge; it’s not that dirty. The key thing is the texture and working with what the girl’s have. It’s not about making them look like clones with the same hair. It feels more personal and less like an army. They’re real; they’re not too bourgeois. We looked at Patti Smith and Kate Moss for inspiration.” Hanlon's six steps to getting this look:
  1. Prep hair with BC Hairtherapy Moisture Kick Leave-in Spray Conditioner.
  2. Apply OSiS Grip Extreme Hold Mousse all over the hair to create texture.
  3. Add OSiS Buff Light Styling Cream to the roots and use a dryer and your hands to create disheveled texture but pulling and stretching down on the hair.
  4. Next, work in OSiS Magic Anti-Frizz Shine Serum section by section to create a “languid shine,” explains Hanlon.
  5. Then, apply BC Hairtherapy Oil Potion Finishing Treatment to the ends to separate and give additional texture and shine.
  6. Finish by applying OSiS Elastic Flexible Hold Hairspray to the roots and then using a hair net to flatten underneath to create what Hanlon describes as a “controlled mess.”
  READ MORE NYFW Fall 2013: At Rebecca Minkoff, nearly at Jason Wu, comfort food at ABC Kitchen NYFW Fall 2013: Street-style pics from Day 2: Ladylike chic & animal print NYFW Fall 2013: Street-style pics from Day 1: Uptown style & downtown cool  
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Backstage beauty at NYFW fall/winter 2013/2014: Altuzarra's woman is street smart and fiercely chic