As we age, plushy collagen and taut elastin fibres break down and skin loses it's elasticity. These ingredients can help bring back the glory days of youth.
Peptides are the naturally occurring building blocks of protein in skin. We don’t necessarily become deficient in them as we age, but introducing more into our routine is beneficial because of a specific receptor in the cell. “They stimulate collagen in a very unique way,” says Dr. Dennis Gross, a dermatologist based in New York. “The more receptors you put to work, the more firming you’ll see. If your concern is wrinkles or laxity, then it’s an important ingredient to look for in your products.” With consistent use, expect to see changes after one month.
Dr. Dennis Gross Firming Peptide Milk ($78), at sephora.com.
The Ordinary “Buffet” Multi-Technology Peptide Serum ($14.80), at ordinaries.com.
Hyaluronic acid is a sugar molecule found in connective tissues that supports skin due to its ability to bind water, says Dr. Kucy Pon, a Toronto-based dermatologist. “Creams that contain hyaluronic acid can improve hydration of the outer layer of skin and give a softer, smoother appearance,” she says. “When skin is well hydrated, the look of fine lines and wrinkles may also be improved.” Look for hyaluronic acid and/or sodium hyaluronic on an ingredient list.
Lierac Paris Hydragenist Moisturizing Rescue Balm ($70), at lierac.ca.
Neutrogena Hydro Boost Water Gel ($25), at shoppersdrugmart.ca.
Ceramides are waxy lipids in the top layer of skin that act as a protective barrier and help retain water. The production of ceramides declines with age, compromising the skin barrier. “This can let in harmful environmental components and lead to inflammation,” says Gross. “An intact barrier is also essential for the delivery of other anti-aging ingredients.” On a label, look for ceramide NG, AP or EOP, ceramide 2/ceramide NS, ceramide 3/ceramide NP, sphingolipids or phospholipids.
SkinCeuticals Triple Lipid Restore 2:4:2 ($140), skinceuticals.com.
Ren Flash Hydro-Boost Instant Plumping Emulsion ($52), sephora.ca.
B vitamins have an essential role in the body. “Topically applied, niacinamide [a type of B vitamin] perfects the skin, strengthens the cell membrane, combats acne and controls hyperpigmentation,” says Gross. Retinol and niacinamide work exceptionally well together. Look for names like riboflavin (B2), niacinamide (B3), panthenol (B5) and biotin (B7).
Kat Burki Complete B Bio-Correcting Face Crème ($430), at murale.ca.
AlumierMD AluminEye ($80), at alumiermd.com.
Are you using it yet?
We're guessing you've heard of Proactiv? The founders behind the acne treatment line – dermatologists Dr. Katie Rodan and Dr. Kathy Fields – also happen to be the savvy brains behind another skincare brand, aptly named Rodan + Fields, which zeros in on anti-aging treatment systems. The duo were recently in Toronto to talk about a super secret launch from said skincare brand, and while my lips are sealed on those details (guys, I had to sign a non-disclosure agreement!), I can tell you my takeaway from meeting with them is that I need to start using retinoic acid like, five years ago.
According to Dr. Kathy Fields, who is still a practicing dermatologist and prof at Stanford School of Medicine in San Francisco, it's all about retinoic acid, which has been around for over 30 years.
"Retinoic acid is still the favoured molecule by dermatologists," says Dr. Fields. "It's vitamin A. It makes the pores look smaller because it debrides the pore [for all you word nerds, that means it unplugs the pore]. It helps normalize cell turnover, which is anti-wrinkle. It helps shed dark skin [think brown spots] and a little anti-cancer."
"If you have sun damaged skin, it helps normalize the epidermis," says Fields.
A few things to know about using retinoic acid:
But the number one anti-aging cream of all time, to infinity and beyond? Come on, you should know this by now.
The answer is sunscreen. "If you're not protecting your skin, you're toast," says Fields.
Kylie Jenner demonstrates her skincare routine on Snapchat. Source: Instagram.com/kylizzlesnapchats
Don't have time to commit to a 10-step routine? Just do this.
It would be nice if we could just eat and drink our way to perfect skin: a bite of salmon here, a glass or two or water there. “Unfortunately when you ingest things orally, they don’t necessarily go to the skin to give benefits,” says Dr. Kucy Pon, a Toronto-based dermatologist. “With regard to collagen-based drinks or food, there is not a lot of data in the medical literature to know whether there are true benefits to the skin.” Takeaway: Apply a topical product in addition to any supplements you might be taking.
If you do just one thing in your…
Exfoliate. “A healthy rate of skin-cell renewal is one of the key components of radiant and even-toned skin,” says New York dermatologist Dr. Dennis Gross, who recommends the daily use of alpha- or beta-hydroxy acids.
"Scientific research shows that collagen and elastin production starts to decline in quantity and quality when we reach the age of 30,” he explains. A retinoid will stimulate new cell production and “inhibit the body’s natural enzymes that break down collagen.”
Add peptides into your routine. "They stimulate collagen in a very unique way,” says Gross. “The more receptors you put to work, the more firming you’ll see. If your concern is wrinkles or laxity, then it’s an important ingredient to look for in your products.” (See here for more info on why they are key.)
Skin is drier now than ever before. Use an oil, like Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Intensive Recovery Ampoules ($135 for 60), to hydrate and prevent water loss.
He had a party. Taylor, Katy and John Mayer were there. Rihanna wasn’t.
On Sunday night, Champagne Papi rang in his 30th birthday by dropping four new tracks on OVO Sound Radio, and hosting a star-studded birthday celebration at Delilah’s restaurant in West Hollywood. A-list celebs like Taylor Swift, Katy Perry and John Mayer attended the fête (hopefully that wasn’t too awk), along with Jamie Foxx, French Montana and Zoë Kravitz. Sadly, there were no RiRi spottings.
Drizzy didn’t seem too bothered...especially when the 6ix God was treated to a signed photo from British singer Sade. (Drake is a longtime fan.)
Drake’s cake however, possibly stole the show, (not just because we are in the middle of a huge Halloween candy craving). The gorgeous three-tiered gateau featured baby pics of him and album artwork for his upcoming Apple Music playlist More Life.
"It really means a lot to me, everybody being here," Drizzy said in an Instagram video taken at the celebration. “The support that you give, night in and night out for the team that's with me every day..."
More life, Drizzy, we wish you all the best.