Elle Canada - The Elle Word

Florals at Erdem, Spring/Summer 2012. Photos by ImaxTree.com

The style world was in full bloom this season with floral prints and patterns brightening the spring/summer 2012 runways of A-listers like Erdem, Prada and Rodarte. When you think about it, fashion and flowers have a lot in common. Take their appeal – lovely and often fragile, they inspire a passion rooted in an appreciation for the beautiful things in life. Then there’s the curating element. If you plan your wardrobe the same way you’d plant a garden – using investment pieces as building blocks and skillfully introducing exciting new pieces – you’ll end up with a closet that inspires you every morning. And there’s nothing garden variety about that.

To help you get started, we’ve rounded up 10 of our favourite floral pieces with tips on how – and where – to wear them.

Runway inspiration: Erdem, Prada, Rodarte, Mary Katrantzou

Who’s worn it well: Miranda Kerr, Jessica Alba, Elle Fanning

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TREND CHALLENGE: Beginner

The look: Ladylike

How to wear it: Think classic chic. Pair it with an LBD (or an LWD!), high-heeled sandals and a statement necklace that picks up on the pretty hues – blue, red or purple – in the clutch.

Where to wear it: To the art gallery, preferably one with a few Matisse canvases – the vibrancy of their patterns will only confirm your sartorial savvy.

 Bag, Aldo Accessories, aldoshoes.com

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A look from Sid Neigum’s award-winning TFI New Labels collection. All photography courtesy of George Pimentel.

In romance, three little words can make all the difference. In the Toronto fashion scene, it’s three letters. TFI—the Toronto Fashion Incubator—has been nurturing local style talent for 25 years, counting designers such as David Dixon, Arthur Mendonça and Joeffer Caoc among its starry alumni. Last night, TFI celebrated its milestone with an appropriately stylish soirée—complete with two fashion competitions— at the Royal Ontario Museum. Inside the ROM crystal, guests circulated with champagne flutes, admiring all the posing on display, from fellow partiers, the dance flash mob and, in quieter form, from an installation of mannequins decked out in dresses created by TFI designers past and present.

Every party needs a guest of honour, and last night it was Susan Langdon, the executive director of TFI, who, in her 18-year tenure, has transformed the incubator into a globally recognized innovator in how to support up-and-coming designers. (The first organization of its kind in the world, TFI has since inspired similar groups in 33 countries.)

“Reaching 25 years is the accomplishment,” Langdon told ELLE last night. “I feel so privileged to be able to work with the designers that we’ve worked with, to see them at the very beginnings of their careers and to watch them develop and grow.” What has she learned about herself during the journey? “I’m a survivor. You have to be.” We’ll toast to that.

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 Luis Pacheco, hair colourist, photographed by Natalie Castellino for Citizens, her photo show, opening in Toronto tonight.

Edward Burtynsky, photographer. Philip Sparks, fashion designer. Roberta Bondar, first female Canadian astronaut in space. The list of people Natalie Castellino photographed for Citizens—20 portraits of Torontonians on view at Red Bull 381 Projects—reads like a dream dinner guest list. “It all stemmed from wanting to capture Toronto,” Castellino explains. “It started as a loose thing, and then grew into something I hadn’t anticipated and took on a life of its own.”

Who was the first person that you photographed, and when was that?

Susur Lee. That was how the whole thing started—at the Red Light on a Friday night. My friend that I was with recognized him first, and we introduced ourselves. We talked into the morning, I asked him if I could take his portrait sometime, he called me the next day. That was a little over a year ago now. I knew walking into to Susur’s restaurant that his portrait would be the first of many. The kind of gut feeling I get when I get a good shot. You just know.

How did you choose who to feature?

I wanted a wide range of personalities and fields. I started by compiling lists. Lists of people, disciplines, fields that I wanted to include. Others came serendipitously. With Ahdri Zhina Mandiela, I met her by chance. A friend invited me to a theatre discussion at B Current, a theatre company that focuses on cultural, social, and political experiences of the Canadian and international Black Diaspora. I became inspired by Ahdri and all that she had and will create. Captivated. After attending other events and getting to know B Current, I knew I wanted her to be involved.

What was the most challenging portrait to take, and why?

It wasn’t so much the most challenging, but the most inspiring. Taking Roberta Bondar’s portrait resonated with me. Her accomplishments and her wide range of knowledge is so admirable. She really makes me want to push myself.

Can you share any behind the scenes anecdotes or favourite memories from any of the shoots?

I shared some really amazing moments with the people I photographed. But lunch with Gail McInnes at the Caledonian definitley stands out. Gail insisted I try haggis. I’m always up to try new food at least once. It’s a kind of savoury pudding containing sheep’s pluck—the heart, liver and lungs with spices, and, in this case, it was fried. So I tried it… along with a couple of pints. I don’t think I’ll have haggis again, but it was a fun shoot.

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In the rattle and hum of the holiday shopping whirlwind, a special someone often slides off the gift list: You. This year, why not splash out on a little personal sparkle? Investing in a statement necklace makes you feel sensational and adds instant glamour to your holiday party look. After all, even the most dedicated follower of fashion needs a shortcut now and then—think of it as a present to your future self.

This winter, opt for the season’s smash hit: short necklaces which frame the face, like the chokers originally made famous by ‘90s 90210 fashion plates Brenda and Kelly. Add mistletoe, and your Dylan equivalent won’t stand a chance.

Biko Mimi Necklace in Purple, $125, ilovebiko.com

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Thomas Tait, Spring 2012 (Photo by: Steve Alkok/Arthur Mola Photography)

“Isn’t it amazing to see Canadian talent on display here in Canada?” That was Coco Rocha kicking off yesterday’s fashion festivities and eliciting warm applause at The ShOws at the Ritz-Carlton. Toronto’s stylish citizenry was out in full force to check out two of Canada’s hottest fashion expats, Calla Haynes and Thomas Tait, who both staged their Spring 2012 collections at the newly opened hotel.

Up first: Thomas Tait, the Montreal-born, London-based fashion wunderkind whose buzz factor is sitting firmly at 11. The youngest graduate of Central Saint Martins’ fabled MA program, Tait won the inaugural Dorchester Collection Fashion Prize in 2010, impressing such heavy hitter judges as Manolo Blahnik and Daphne Guinness. Read the rest of this entry

By: Laura DeCarufel

Jonathan Saunders

“We all went out last night,” Jonathan Saunders explains about halfway through our chat, laughingly holding his head, when he can’t immediately remember the last movie he saw. “I know! The Jackson Pollock film with Ed Harris. I became obsessed with the woman he has an affair with.”

With his ultra direct gaze and his lyrical Glaswegian accent, Saunders is pretty obsession-worthy too. Then there are the clothes—dresses dappled with prints and graphic cut-outs, which Style.com’s Sarah Mower compared to “the long-lamented energy of Helmut Lang’s urban chic.”

Saunders came to fashion indirectly, working first in textile design and furniture (“Some people are born sketching. I wasn’t”), before heading to Central Saint Martins in London. After graduating with an MA in Printed Textiles in 2002, Saunders launched his own label. Success came swiftly—his first collection appeared on the cover of British Vogue.

We caught up with the designer at The Room at the Bay to talk about his muse, favourite model and his obsession with Matisse.

What’s your favourite non-fashion print?
“I love Hermès scarves—they have such a beautiful sense of colour.”

Do you have any muses or style icons?
“I’m not really a muse kind of guy. I want so many different women to wear my clothes. I get more excited about real women than mythical historical figures.”

Who’s your favourite model?
“Lara Stone. She epitomizes modern fashion imagery.”

Other designers that you admire?
“So many for many different reasons. Chanel for the daywear—it’s not about flights of fantasy, that’s a real jacket, a real skirt. Balenciaga, especially new Balenciaga, for the textile development. And I think Prada’s vision is the most relevant to fashion today. It’s a fascinating cross-fertilization of fine art and architecture.”

What are you reading right now?
“I always like Interview from the ‘70s, and I’m reading a book now on Andy Warhol’s phrases—it’s like these soundbites on life. He’s actually a much kinder, more open and down-to-earth character than you’d think.”

Do you collect anything?
“I collect books, fine art books. I love the work of Allen Jones, his amazing sculptures. Also Man Ray. And Guy Bourdin and Helmut Newton—they had such interesting takes on sexuality.”

What about Matisse, and his prints?
“His work was very free, and I generally prefer prints that are more organized. Amazing sense of colour, though. And later in his life, when he went blind, he created those collages out of ripped paper. So beautiful.”

By: Laura DeCarufel

Charlotte Olympia Dellal

“I got dressed up,” Charlotte Dellal says, by way of introduction, arching an eyebrow and glancing down at her statement necklace, vintage evening dress, and, of course, the vertiginous Charlotte Olympia heels that she designed herself. Then there’s the hair — delicately waved and recently dyed red in homage to Rita Hayworth, Dellal’s “ultimate” style icon.

The Dellal surname conjures up a similar aura—Charlotte’s brother, Alex, is a London-based curator, who is currently dating Charlotte Casiraghi, the daughter of Princess Caroline. Her model sister, Alice, she of the nose ring and half-shaved head, has posed for Paris Vogue, Burberry, and Agent Provocateur. Their mother, Andrea, is a former model; their father, Guy, is an international property magnate.

But never mind the Vogue-worthy lineage—Charlotte Dellal is here to talk about her shoe line. Launched in 2006, Charlotte Olympia is a glamour girl’s dream. For Fall 2010, there are leopard print booties, fuchsia satin platforms, and red velvet wedges embellished with a bow. For an extra dose of allure, a gold spider web is printed onto the bottom of each heel. We meet at The Room at the Bay to play “Five minutes” with the designer. Here’s what she had to say…

What was the first pair of high heels you ever wore?
“My mother’s gold Gucci high heels! They seemed so super high to me at the time, and I guess for the time, they were. They had that ankle strap—total showgirl shoes. I was a young teenager, and I must have borrowed them for a party.”

Who is your all-time favourite shoe designer?
“Ferragamo from back in the day.”

Who do you think had the best shoes throughout history?
“Carmen Miranda! How’s that for a starting point? [laughs] It’s all a bit fruity, isn’t it? I love that—miles and miles of ridiculously high heels.”

What’s your favourite fashion era?
“The ‘40s for the glamour and the ‘50s for all its tongue-in-cheek humour. I love all that nostalgia. And it seems to me that they just had more fun with everything back then. There was a sense of play, even when it came to accessories—green shoes, yellow shoes…”

How do you feel about being called an “It girl”?
“Ultimately, I’d like to be known as Charlotte Dellal, shoe designer, but I understand where that comes from. I am my brand—it’s the essence of things that I love, and I started out really designing shoes for myself. I wanted to create shoes that I wanted to wear, and [the brand] has grown and broadened from there. I live it, so we really are one.”

By: Laura DeCarufel

Nicholas Kirkwood

It must be a bit daunting—being touted as the next Louboutin at the age of 30. But Nicholas Kirkwood, in Toronto for the “God Save the Queen” event at The Room at the Bay, seems thoroughly unruffled by the hype. He’s sweet and a bit shy—clearly a designer first, showman second.

A brief biography: Born in Germany, where his father was stationed with the army, Kirkwood studied at Central Saint Martins in London before working at Philip Treacy’s shop for five years. He then studied for a year at the prestigious Cordwainers Company (“Promoting the study, practise, interpretation and preservation of historical shoemaking”), before launching his own line in 2005.

Since then, he’s won awards left and right and collaborated with some of the brightest names in the business, including Jonathan Saunders who he recently succeeded as creative director at Pollini. Another coup? Last season, Kirkwood replaced Louboutin as the shoe designer for Rodarte’s runway shows.

What is it that you love about shoes?
“I’ve always loved the idea of the craft of shoes, the artisanal qualities. I’m interested in product design—how the components of fashion fit together. I also love that shoes need to be functional. There’s a challenge in that. I mean, you need to be able to walk in them too, right?”

You’ve recently created a shoe collection featuring the artist Keith Haring’s prints. How did that come about?
“A few seasons ago, I watched a documentary on Keith Haring, and I was amazed at how much of his work I hadn’t seen. Many of us are familiar with some of his pieces— all the graffiti-influenced work—but I was in awe at how prolific he was. I thought the shapes would be so amazing translated into shoes.”

Is it true that you’re starting a men’s line?
“Yes. It’s in the works now, and I’m hoping we can launch next year. I’m also interested in creating a handbag line. It’s only a question of when it will happen—whether it will be two seasons from now, or three or four.”

What about designing clothing? Does that intrigue you at all?
“To be honest, I don’t think I’d be able to do it convincingly. I’d need to train to be an expert in that realm, otherwise I don’t think I’d get a very good reaction. More savvy, faceless brands can do that and get away with it. I’d need to feel like I really knew what I was doing, in order for it to be believable.”

Calling all beauty junkies! Get pampered—for less!—at The Stillwater this month.

By Laura deCarufel and Jennifer Lee

Fall is all about new beginnings, but for Toronto style reporters, renewal comes a bit later in the season, after the madness of TIFF, the insanity of Fashion Week. Now that life is slowing down again, we decided to unwind the loveliest way possible: By spending a morning at the Stillwater Spa at the Park Hyatt.

Normally, it would be among the most indulgent ways possible too, but this month, the Stillwater is offering an extra special deal. Billed as the “Stillwater Sampler”, the package includes a facial, manicure and pedicure, all 30 minutes each, and all for $150. It’s an ideal way to experience Toronto’s most consistently excellent spa.

First up? The facial.

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A tale of two film festivals, in star gazing, hot restos, and party It spots.

This festival, Laura deCarufel and Jennifer Lee, the co-editors of Hardly magazine, had the high honour of reporting from TIFF’s coolest films, parties, and events. Stay tuned for our wrap-up coverage this week, including our favourite moments from the festival!

This spring and fall, Jenn and I covered two very different film festivals. Cannes was a très surreal experience—the festival took over the town, with men in tuxedos and women in ballgowns lined up along the Croisette looking for stars, and hoping for tickets (Typical homemade sign: “Wall Street 2!!! S’il vous plait?”)

We took the train in every morning from Vallauris, where we had rented an apartment, and joined the crush of journalists waiting in line for films and press conferences. We saw some great movies (Blue Valentine and Heartbeats by Quebec wunderkind Xavier Dolan), and some terrible ones (Woody Allen’s You Will Meet a Tall Dark Stranger.) We saw stars on the red carpet, at the nightly parties, and on the street (Naomi Watts, the incredible Mathieu Amalric). We stayed out until 5, then watched George Clooney’s Nespresso commercials while eating steak and scrambled eggs as the sun came up. To say we had the time of our lives is to understate.

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