Moments after the first model appeared on the 2nd Floor runway wearing a faux fur jacket, the style wags in the front row were grumbling. “Oh dear, hedgehog roadkill!” Another whispered that Suzy Menkes once told him that “she puts away her notebook if a show opens with red and black.” (To be fair—or kind—the red in the model’s skirt was more of a tomato orange.) With its “fun” fur jackets, shirt dresses with faux croc collars and leather-quilted shorts, this collection–which was an homage to Robin Hood–is for the urban adventurer with a taste for folkloric-inspired synthetic style.
The Melk Z-Da show—with its ruffles, satins and netting, was declared to be a “Gaga-ism wannabe.” There was nothing subtle or sexy about the exposed stomachs and “bunda” or the transparent patches for the peekaboo décolletage. One dress had a sheer square patch directly over the nether region, bringing new meaning to the term Brazilian. Think Tinkerbell at the prom.
The highlight of the evening was Coven with its Mayan-inspired flappers wearing desert boot, open-heeled wedges. It had an artisanal art deco vibe, if there is such a thing. It was thoughtful, elegant design with detailed tapestry accents and jeweled embellishments. The inspiration, according to designer Susana Bastos, was Mayan artisanal work that she saw while visiting Antigua in Guatemala. Although I thought some of the designs had an art deco echo, Bastos said they were reproductions of windows she saw in Antigua. (Note: The interview was conducted through a French translator who was learning Portuguese and who considers English his third language behind Italian. Oh, Mama mia!)
“Coven is a very distinctive brand,” boutique owner Joana Noasco told me backstage. “We’ve carried the line in our store (Via Flores) for 10 years and our customers love it because it’s fresh, young and fashionable. Some designers in Brazil look to foreign brands, but Coven does their own thing.”
What do you think of the looks from Day 2?