Alexandre Herchcovitch, the master of quirky inspirational mélanges, opened Rio de Janeiro’s winter fashion week with a rather low-key, denim collection. The Herchcovitch line, which is the Brazilian designer’s more affordable streetwear collection, was inspired by New York artists from the late ’70s and ’80s who gave conventional work attire a casual and stylish twist. Call it posh proletariat chic.
The paulistano’s models, who sported aviator shades and hair like Alison Pill in Milk, wore buttoned-up shirtdresses, capris and Herchcovitch’s signature bodycon catsuits. “The message that I have been saying for a long time is that fashion, for me, is the same as freedom,” Herchcovitch told me backstage. “You can wear whatever you want and you can mix whatever you want. Fashion has no rules.”
Esther Bauman of Acquastudio looked to the ’40s and ’50s for inspiration in her romantic and whimsical collection. Lace, polka dots, sparkly flower appliques and crepes with foil set the mood for this girly fashion outing. At Patachou, the inspirational fashion period was the ’20s and the style was Asian-themed with a hint of flapper flair.
At Alessa it was a ’70s south-western mood with subtle yet inventive blends of animal skin motifs with pueblo-style prints. Designer Alessandra Migani’s closing runway dance was the playful highlight of the night.
Brazilian top model Caroline Trentini, walked the evening’s closing show for Cantao. It was her only appearance during the week and she savoured it. “It’s a pleasure to come back home,” she said backstage after the show. “I know that people really appreciate it when I come back and I love the weather. I just flew in from New York this morning and it’s freezing!” It’s Trentini’s third season with Cantao and she raves about the line. “I love the shapes—they’re so comfortable and they look good on every woman. You don’t have to be a model!” Comfort—but sex appeal—is the key to the line’s success, added designer Lanza Mazza. “This collection is about being comfortable and protected,” she explained. “A relaxed silhouette can be very sexy. It’s about the way you wear it and the attitude you project.”