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Rose garden

More than symbols of romance, roses make the best face-savers in skin care.

By
Alison Garwood-Jones
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Rose Garden

Where the rose fragrance lingers, peace reigns. Whoever uttered this -- an 18th-century French aristocrat strolling through her gardens or an Egyptian princess lulled by her rose-oil massage -- may well have been referring to the many calming benefits of rose extracts on irritated, marked or aging
skin. People have been praising the aromatherapeutic uses of rose oils and waters for thousands of years, says Leanne McCliskie, education manager at the International Dermal Institute in Toronto. But it's only recently that we have started documenting their effects on skin.

Deep hydration "Hydration is the number one benefit of rose-based lotions and toners," says McCliskie. The natural sugars contained in rose petals soothe, soften and moisturize the skin when applied as a mist or cream. Straight rose oil (rose absolute), extracted from the petals through steam distillation, is also a good moisturizer, like any plant oil, but you would never spread it all over your face, says Marcia Dixon, a Toronto-based medical herbalist. "Five millilitres of Rose Absolute costs $300. Next to jasmine, it's the most expensive essential oil you can buy." That's why rose oils usually come in a carrier oil, like sweet almond or jojoba. Add a few drops to a warm bath, then soak up the surface oil with your washcloth and hold it against your face, neck and chest. Note: You can spot a poor-quality extract by its faint aroma
of caramel, usually the result of the oil being overheated during the distillation process.

No fade on this bloom Much has been made of the anti-aging properties of the rosehip (the ovary of the flower). The oil from all species of rosehips is a powerful antioxidant due to its high concentration of vitamin C. For example, the Rosa rugosa Thunb contains up to seven percent of vitamin C, making it the richest known source on earth. (A peeled orange contains a mere .05 percent.) However, you won't find this particular rose on many product ingredient lists, but rather more econom-ical varieties like the Rosa damascena, Rosa centifolia and Rosa gallica. Maintaining the stability of the vitamin C is still the biggest challenge. Scientists feel more confident extolling the benefits of the essential fatty acids (EFAs) in rosehip oil: EFAs strengthen cellular membranes and regenerate skin tissue-especially in the sensitive area around the eyes-while fading minor scars, burns and stretch marks.

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