Hot pod: Soy skin-care

Ever since scientists discovered the many health benefits of soy - including lowering cholesterol, reducing menopause symptoms and protecting against certain cancers - it has been hailed as a superfood. Now, some beauty companies are calling it the next super-ingredient, thanks to its gentle yet effective results on everything from wrinkles to hyperpigmentation when applied to the skin. “Soy is a workhorse,” says Kristine Schmalenberg, a staff scientist for Johnson & Johnson. “More information is coming out about the positive benefits of soy as a food source, and we think that if it can do so much good for the inside [of the body], it should do the same for the outside too.”

Although products like tofu and soy milk have only recently become popular in North America, the soybean has been used for centuries in traditional Chinese medicine to help improve the complexion and act as a remedy for heart, liver, kidney and stomach ailments. Johnson & Johnson scientists became aware of its potential as a skin-care ingredient when they found research showing that workers in soybean factories who handled the legume developed smooth and even-toned hands. Today, almost every product in the company's Aveeno line incorporates soy, says Schmalenberg, and companies like Lancôme, Elizabeth Arden and Origins are following suit with formulations of their own.

Getting even “Studies show that soy helps with hyperpigmentation,” says Dr. Frances Jang, a dermatologist based in Vancouver. Hyper-pigmentation occurs when cells called melanocytes are stimulated by ultraviolet rays-or, less commonly, hormones or certain antibiotics - to produce melanin. “Soy contains proteins and isoflavones [estrogen-like compounds] that work in the pigmentation cells,” says Schmalenberg.

“They don't stop pigmentation; they bring it down and spread it out across the skin to make it look brighter and more even-toned.” According to Jang, soy is a good choice if you have sensitive skin and experience irritation from hydroquinone, a chemical-based brightening compound. “Soy is safe to use and worth trying,” she says. But be patient: It's gentler than hydroquinone, so it can take longer to see results, which may also be less dramatic, says Jang.

Lost age
Excess estrogen may be to blame for premenstrual moodiness and acne flare-ups, but too little can be the culprit behind the dry, thinning skin associated with aging. “Soy has a few components that mimic estrogen, such as isoflavones,” says Tony Vargas, vice-president of global research and development for Elizabeth Arden, whose Intervene line uses soy. “As women age, they produce less of certain skin-cell proteins that are responsible for creating collagen and elastin. Soy tells cells to produce more of these proteins. After three or four weeks, you'll start to see your skin become plumper.” Antoinette Ritondo, a national training manager for Lancôme - which sells the soy-infused Absolue Bx line - agrees. “Soy helps restore skin's firmness,” she says.