Can adult acne be conquered? A dermatologist and facialist weigh in on how to banish breakouts for good.
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The traditional dermatologist
Dr. Jaggi Rao is an associate clinical professor of dermatology at the University of Alberta and founder of Acne Clinics of Canada in Edmonton.
The causes "There are four causes: the clogging of pores due to makeup or improper exfoliation; increased oil production, largely caused by male hormones called androgens; bacteria; and inflammation. Acne could be on the rise because people are wearing sunscreen and makeup more than they used to, which can clog pores, trap bacteria and even contribute to oil production."
His go-to remedy "First, it's important to look at the type and pattern of acne - for example, pimples that are concentrated along the jawline, chin and neck tend to be hormonal. There's no single protocol for all types of acne. Treatment plans can involve topical drying agents, birth control pills, oral antibiotics anti-hormonal medications - such as spironolactone, which blocks androgens - and cortisone injections. Be very careful with laser treatments: They're an expensive quick fix, but using them alone won't reduce acne over the long term. For severe acne - which can scar - Accutane is still one of the best solutions."
At home "Cleansing your skin at least twice a day is important. Avoid moisturizers that are too drying, and choose mineral-based makeup, which won't clog pores."
Biggest mistake "Not seeing a physician. We always talk about cleansing the skin and eating well, but a lot of people do that and still get acne. Get assessed by a dermatologist - the earlier acne is treated, the better the results."
The facialist
Anastasia Achilleos is a London-based celebrity facialist and consultant for Olay.
The causes "Pustular and cystic acne are the most common acne I see, and both are related to hormones and stress. Some people have a medical problem that is causing breakouts. There are also emotional aspects: repressed tension, anger or feeling out of sync with your life."
Her go-to remedy "Regular facials have helped all of my clients with acne. A good therapist should analyze your skin, lifestyle, diet and stress levels. Cleansing, exfoliating and steaming can help soften the skin and draw out impurities, while lymphatic tissue massage can improve circulation. I use a series of serums, ampoules and creams to improve skin texture, elasticity, cell regeneration and scarring. Craniosacral therapy and reiki can provide results on a deeper level because they have an impact on your emotional well-being. Other treatments that have benefited my clients are homeopathy and diet analysis."
At home "Gentle cleansing is important. Alternate between an antibacterial cleanser and one that combats dryness. Treatments that include peptide ingredients accelerate cell renewal and improve the appearance of acne scars. Serums provide fast results because they have a smaller molecular structure, allowing them to penetrate better than regular moisturizers - try Olay Regenerist Daily Regenerating Serum under Olay Anti-Blemish Daily Moisturizer. Exfoliate weekly with a gentle scrub to remove the buildup of dead skin cells, and apply a clay-based mask afterwards to tighten pores."
Biggest mistake "Believing that the stronger the product, the more effective it is, and thinking that acne-prone skin is always oily - most acne sufferers have a combination of dry, flaky, sensitive skin."



