MAKEUP Like at Vivienne Westwood, it's all about playing with gender when it comes to makeup this season. At Emanuel Ungaro, the look was "feminine but in a strong, masculine, boyish way,” Lucia Pieroni tells me. “When you have a strong brow, or you have a strong lip, which is quite masculine and boyish, you have to juxtapose that with a light prettiness of skin. It’s about finding the beauty in someone’s face and not making her ugly or too masculine--it’s that balance.” PRODUCTS ”On the lips, we wanted a deep-black currant, so we used Currant Lip Pencil and Lip Mix Burgundy from M.A.C," says Pieroni. "On the skin, we used M.A.C Mineralize Moisture Foundation and added lots of gorgeous highlights around the eyes and cheekbones with M.A.C Pearl Creme Colour Base.” NAILS At first glance the nails look black, but Marian Newman is quick to point out that they’re not—and that’s what’s modern about them. “They’re very much like the lip,” she explains. “We mixed black with M.A.C's Crimson Sky--about two-thirds black to one-third colour. For me, this is my story of the season. It’s all about the details. It’s about noticing the tiny elements that make the look unique. It can be a tiny detail on a nail or, in this case, a subtle shift in colour. In terms of nail shapes, there is no key trend this season. It’s about working with your natural shape. If you’ve got a little bit of length, that's fine. If your nails are short, that's fine too. Everyone is a winner this season." HAIR Whenever a professional hairstylist tells you the look is “supernatural," you can rest assured there’s nothing natural about it. It takes work to look like you’ve done nothing. “It’s their own hair; their own cool, easy, unfussy style,” Sam McKnight tells me, and then adds: “But we had to unfuss it. You know--blow-dry the frizzies out. I didn’t really use any product, except L’Oréal Beach Waves. And that was just to give a little lift to the ends. It’s not really a beachy look; it’s just that unbrushed impression. It’s basically how a woman would like to look when she wakes up." READ MORE Feeling adventurous? Try the feral unisex look from Vivienne Westwood. Is nail art entering a golden age? Four beauty-editor-approved looks from Paris.